Waipy

Would be any issue replacing the 12mm parts with 15mm apart from weight? 12mm is hard to find at good prices lately. I am thinking about the bottom part and if the increased wood width reducing the volume will affect the output in any noticeable way.

do you guys damp the internals of the skram? there are a lot of different opinions about damping subwoofers. I've used polyester fiber (cheapest quilt sold on ikea) in the past for the woofer chambers in a martin 215 mk3 clone placing it in 3 of the 4 walls as it is not a square with great (to my ears) success. I am planning on doing this also for a couple skrams I just get but anyway I'll be glad to hear your opinion. would it be audible? i've been victim plenty of times in the past of the "ahá it sounds better" effect and then you go back some days after and it sounds the same...

Will a RCF LF21X451 or a RCF LF21N451 work well in a Skram? I've just used two RCF on a Martin Audio 215 MK3 with great results so I'll be glad to give the brand another try. The proposed RCF LF21N551 is not produced anymore. Also I can get my hands on a cheap Beyma 21LEX1600ND. What parameters should I be looking to know if a speaker will work properly on a Skram?

Thanks for the info Ricci, I'll go for the 8ohm option as LaVoce only has 8ohm haha Regarding the pieces, yes I meant dsl's files. So actually this was a direct question to him. Anyway if they are not critical as you said I suppose that my guessings are correct. I'll upload some photos when the build begins

Hello all, first of all thanks to everyone for the knowledge share and specially to Ricci for pusblishing your works. I've been years behind the Othorns and when finally I was able to build them I leaned to the Skram as it seems more reasonable for me in terms of costs (going for the Lavoce) and mobility. I've been organizing the .dxf files that @dsl1 shared and named them according to the pdf that Ricci shared (Ricci I can send you the files in order to swap them in the front page to ease the work of newbies like me, if dsl1 agrees). I have some questions referring to that: - The back panel brace (part T) is divided in two, right? (back brace 1 and 2, one having an angle) - The middle hatch brace (part Q) is removed? I cannot identify it and also I see that there is no dado in the hatch. Also another question apart from the Skram just to not do a double post, if it's OT please just ignore it. I've seen since the Othorn that plenty of people recommends the 4ohm version of the driver. Apart from power requirements do it sound different from the 8ohm version? I have a Crest 9001 and I planned to put one per channel at 4ohms (amp will deliver 2050w per channel) but thinking on upgrading to 4 subs the crest will be delivering 3000w per channel at 2ohm. 2 cabs per side go up to 3400w so I don't think those 400w will make a difference. But the 8ohm version will allow me to put 3 per side if swapping the amp and also have more resell value just in case. Can't decide about what to pick... been with this thoughts for years, what do you think? In sound terms (musicality, tightness, whatever...) will it make a difference?