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Everything posted by Droogne

  1. Been thinkering again, got a week of now till I start again with work (in the COVID19 wards; so will not have a lot of free time as you can imagine). The models with the NLW9600 make me appreciate a higher tuning some more. Xmax limited 130dB point lowest level effective 0dB FR 31hz tune 32.5hz 129.8dB 32hz tune 33.0hz (+0.5hz) 130.6dB (+0.8dB) 33hz tune 33.8hz (+1.3hz) 131.3dB (+1.3dB) 34-.. hz 131.3dB +-0dB 34hz tune 34.3hz (+1.9hz) 131.9dB (+1.9dB) 35-.. hz 131.9dB +-0dB (I have to admit I didnt incorporate the increase in size by reducing port size) FR between 34 and 31hz for reference So for these drivers a somewhat higher tuning might increase the output while sacrificing 1-2hz cutoff. Maybe just tune them at 34hz (or even higher), and use a single specific port divider to allow tuning between 31 and 34hz. Yes I like low frequency output, also for PA (as it suits my music), so I'm not eager to give up the LF output for some more output in general. But it does look like shifting the tuning a little bit might be beneficial in general.
  2. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1l7Pf_MkJqLrwNJE_N-kdNn-AXEGntZG8 Here is a link to the REW files of the left MEH (+ la scala). Anything to suggest that I do? What about the delays? Any remarks on the crossovers (700hz 48dB)? Would you flatten it, or boost some of the range? I realise those are some newbie questions I guess, but I want to get it right, and I fear I'm making some mistakes over and over.
  3. Have decided to place the synergies on the 2x LaScalas I still have. That way I can boost the 60-120hz. Why only 120hz? Because that is the 1/4th WL distance between the center of the LaScala and the synergy. I'm already liking it! It also brings the speakers up to earheight (and positions the right one completely above the couch) and allows horizontal placement. Also, my OLED has been fixed! Apparently the motherboard crapped the bed.. was replaced in 10 minutes, but did cost me the price of upgrading to a better compression driver..
  4. Also, random idea. Use 2x 12" on side (horizontal) and 1x 21" (the 21LW1400 for which I have no purpose) on the other side. So a 3 way actually 2x12" is around 150-700hz 131-133dB at RMS Xmax limited. The 21"' can easily do 50-150hz 131dB, with 50-80hz at 135dB. I think if I model this as a 3-way MEH, the overlap between 80 and 150hz will add a lot more, that way it will do 135dB down to at least 135hz. And go to 50hz. As listed above, the BMS/B&C can do a theoretical 135dB at RMS. My 4x 12" solution (with ports, 75hz) would result in a response I'd prefer though, the 21" is just something to toy with. 4x 12" is way more powerfull (aka 135dB at RMS) up to the crossover so it can match the CD. It would only go down to 60hz if I tune it low, but with a slightly higher tune I can add some output in the 80-200hz range (which I would like to boost in general, to match the subs). 2pi, RMS Xmax limited for 2x drivers (modelled together because they share the same cabin), tuned to 75hz. So lowest max output in a 4x 12" driver situation would be ~137dB (between 300-400hz). 70-200hz would enjoy 141dB max output at RMS. The 4x 21" woofers I have now would be able to match them (~131dB each from 32hz) in the cabins I designed.
  5. I know.. but I just can lug it outside. However, we will be using them for an outside event, so before it takes place I'm gonna take the chance to EQ them completely. What would you recommend for inside EQ (in a 'chaotic room'). Just EQ down to 500hz? I have thought about both of them, compared to my JBL2447. At the moment I have enough channels on the XP4080 to do a 3-way. As I have listed once on AVSf: "The DCX464 lists as 110+80W with a 111.1dB/1W and 111.4dB/1W sensitivity respectively, measured on a "320hz" exponential horn, so ~134dB net. However, I'm not sure how this translates to my 80x40 horn.The BMS lists as a 80+150W with a 118dB/1W sensitivity, measured on a 40x20 horn. I gather it will be around6dB lower than on my 80x40, which would fit with the 110dB/1W when looking at the graphs BMS has for the 4594. So a net of ~134.5dB.So both show around a 134dB output at RMS. I already have JBL 2447 drivers, which are listed at around 132dB down to (at least) 700hz. So around 70% less output. Radion 950 would seems like a whopping 135.5W continues on a 80x40." The DE360 only goes down to 1200hz, and my synergy stops at 700hz.
  6. Yes, importing them costs around 2500-3000.. That is WITH the K69, but that doesnt compensate.The horns I have now I got for less than 500. Resale value is nihil (although they are build by Don Keele so it has a 'name'), but I didnt bother too much as I was gonna cut holes in them which slashes their value either way 🙂 . Yes, going to a BMS4592 would save more than 8kg (20 lbs) in weight. Same for the woofers, I want 4 in it I should switch to P80Nd instead of the Fe version. Goes from 12.5kg to 6.5kg (so for 4 woofers thats 25kg..).
  7. Just basic stuff, I can EQ till I get a +-1dB flat response, but thats it. I dont require anything fancy for now. Can I maybe mail you the measurements, than you can maybe make some suggestions (mic setup, crossover choice and what not)? Normally I'm in contact with Chris A (if you know him), but I dont want to impose too much on him.
  8. Any of you guys sufficiently experienced with REW to have a look at my measurements to see what I might be doing wrong? I particularily am dissatisfied about the bass part, even when EQd flat to 80hz (with subs).
  9. At this moment I have enourmous trouble making them sound good. They are OK, they 'work'. Inteligibillity is fine, and better than most of the speakers I have had, but not superb. At least not to compensate for their size. Bass is also very poor. However I should not be mad about that It's because of the 12P80Fe driver. It modelled very poorly under 100hz. However, they are incredibly strong from 120-700hz (126dB; 2pi, RMS) A port might help (firing from sides, or top when they stand vertical.), especially if I can block them of so I can keep them 'sealed' too. Maybe I can just sacrifice part of the horn (5-10cm from the width on each side). At the sides (horizontal definetely) the horn is almost completely flat.
  10. I never had the K402, because they were so goddamn expensive over here in Europe. For CD I just use a JBL 2447, but I'm definetly gonna replace them. Same for the 12P80Fe. Good drivers I'm sure, but both very heavy (10+ kg each) which limits the portability. Getting the 110x80x60cm cabin down will be extremely difficult to start with, the weight will make it a lot harder to manouver them. However, I would probably go for a BMS4595 (I need a 1.5" throat..). The Radian if I can find a second hand. Maybe make a 1.4 to 1.5" adapter so I can have a wider pick of drivers. The celestion look pretty cool! A more high end version of the BMS? (or at least when looking at the price ).
  11. Xilica XP4080, measuring with UMIK1+REW.
  12. They are finished for now, with a single woofer each, and I have everything for a loner thread. However, I'm still not happy with them so I keep on tweaking and measuring etc till I'm satisfied.
  13. All right, so eerything except the walls adjacent to the port opening (including a part of the walls cornering it). EDIT: sorry, you worded it correctly. Everywhere except in front of the driver (and in the ports themselves I guess). I do however see you also didnt line the parts around the port opening. Because you counted this parts as part of the port?
  14. What do you mean by 'only do the ported section'; Only my first box, or more in general? Because the IPAL seems to have it on all walls; except the ports.
  15. I build my speakers in my living room 😛 I would never be able to store, let alone bring up, huge pannels like that. I might find some pannels on the second hand market, but I would have to cut them myself.. something which is something I rather not do as I do make mistakes (I dont have have a decent cutting table.. just a very small one for small cuts.) The store I normally go to is pretty cheap, has wood I really like (maybe not the best structural strength, but it has a nice look) and they cut it for free as long as the cuts are straigt. So for me there are no good alternatives. Oh well.. We all have to make compromises these days I guess.
  16. Yup yup, all "non-essential" stores will be closed from tomorrow on. So I will not be able to buy the wood I need. Will have to shelve the project. I'll finish up the design, focus on tweaking my mains (of which I will be starting a large thread on AVS/diyAudio/both), study, and hope I have the time to build the subs before my event in june.
  17. So not 50% of height, but rather 75% of width? Because my port is also significantly wider. Because that would mean +25cm? Or do you mean because the port is vertical, the width is the shortest dimention. But still, rather 75% than 50%? Allright, the drivers arived today and I ordered the necessariy parts (connectors, handles..). How much filling do you suggest for this design? And do you add internal volume due to the filling (I've read +20% somewhere, but I never do).
  18. True. However, doesnt the "+50% of the height" also apply to a vent when it radiates horizontally at floor level?
  19. @Ricci Hey, as the mouths of the port and horn are both located on the ground, dont you get a kind of corner loading effect on the port and front horn? The tuning of the port especially is way lower in HR. Consider you put a few subs next to each other, dont you create a 'wall' aka 1pi, even though youre in a 2pi situation? Was hoping to rush the design and get the wood this weekend, but alas.. all shops closed in the weekend due to the crisis.
  20. Ok using the port size listed in the post above (793cm²): - first part of the port (black line) is 65 (the depth) - 1.8 (backpanel) - 15.50 (height of the port) = 47.7cm - second part (blue line)/the corner = 15.5cm (port height) - third part (red line) then should be 85cm - 47.7 - 15.5 - 7.75 (50% of port height) = 14.05cm How do I take the multiple vents in account? I know I have, but couldnt find out how. I try to get as close as I can. I take 53.5cm into account for the driver surface, so shortest distance is 53.5/2 = 26.75. However, I have placed the driver somewhat more to the left external pannel (pink). This increases S2. The front horn length: 64.1cm = 85cm - 2* 1.8cm (external pannels) - 1* 1.8cm (pannel between port and horn) - 15.5cm L12: 35.1cm = (64.1cm / 2) + 3cm L23: 18.84cm = 64.1cm - 35.1cm (L12) - S3 height (10.15 = S3 area / depth = 573cm²/56.4cm) L34: black line: 20.3cm = 10.15*2 (S3 height *2) red line: 33.65cm = 64.1cm - S3 height - S5 height L45: 20.32cm = S5 area/depth = 1146cm²/56.4cm S2 area: 372cm² = (L12 / (L12+L23) ) * S3 area Based on HR I get a front horn that takes in 71L which seems to fit with a simple check: 64.1cm (length) * 20.3cm (height) * 56.4cm (depth) = 73L
  21. MAIN BOX: 284.6L internal SECOND BOX: 111.24L internal TOTAL: 395.8L INTERNAL PANNELS horn, port: 19.4L bracing (calculated 10.7L) 15L to give some reserve DRIVER: 15L 395.8 - 49.2 = 346.64L HR schematic: 359.5L So yes, I miss around 13L (with a 880cm x 92.6cm port, which was the adjusted value from te original 922.4 to allow the voume taken in by the port bracing.) As I want to keep the size the same, and I think I can manage with a smaller port I adjusted to: 793cm² x 85cm which brings the HR calculated volume to 345L.
  22. How do you guys wire subwoofers in parallel when using speak on?
  23. Correct, is exactly what I did. I'll double check. However, I still think this is not too much or anything. Especially when you close of a part of the port for differential tuning. Also, when taking the port bracing its more like 850 than 920. Also, my restrictions were not so much space, rather footprint and carryability. Splitting it in 2 and keeping the footprint between 60x65 does that. True. I modelled based on those results. However, I'll see if I can't make it shorter. Because I need the subs to be 120cm long (as I realised they are perfect speakers stands for my mains) I can't make the subs much smaller. Maybe a better volume vs port size ratio might be good. But the 60x65x120 size is fixed. Maybe 😛 but if I want to brace it, that will be somewhat harder. Maybe I'll open up those second boxes on 2 sides, so I can add more than one box. Interesting.
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