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Droogne

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About Droogne

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  1. Ok, I'll probably have to buy another horn sub, or I just might sell this one in the future (poor resale value though, not perfectly build :s) and build a wall of sealed (or ported) subs. Would I have smoother rooms response with the horn aimed at the corner (with a top plate) or does this only increase the dB? The horn sub does a terrific job at keeping up with the rests of my setup in music situations. Tried to boost the low end earlier this morning, but i ended up with something weird (I think it was missing the midbass punch I felt earlier). It did improve majorly in the lower end, so I got a satisfying LFE punch for movies (till I get the dedicated low end subs). Will recalibrate the settings and see if I can fix the midbass (40-80) hz punch I had earlier. Now that I have my UMIK I can try to see what exact SPL I have at max. listening volumes (which is not pretty high, as I have neighbours, lots of them). I was planning on trying out mixing different subs, but not to hope for it giving a satisfying result. But who knows. Counting on sealed or ported below 35hz, and the horn sub above that. Both seperated with a steep crossover so they dont mix. That should work right?
  2. Pushing a horn: how to measure (with an UMIK1).

    Aight, as I'm little time restricted (but still want to EQ the LaScala as it is distracting me ), I'll probably run Audyssey, take notes of what it measured, reset everything and manually insert the distances (from the measurement). I can then maybe adjust those distances, but guess it will suffice for now right? Db levels I can easily match by ear (as I always change it after Audyssey as I'm never happy with how it turns out). I'm only 22, so time enough to learn I like it a lot! Before this I was a diehard tv-show bingewatcher, but I have now transitioned from quantity to quality by investing in the top-of the line gear (for a non-working student). It is in a pretty good position, the UMIK-1 has a little tripod itself, which sits on the speaker stand. (will snap a pic in half an hour). Will probably invest in a dedicated tripod though. Ok, that makes a lot of sense, thanks! Seems like a solid way to go about it.
  3. Pushing a horn: how to measure (with an UMIK1).

    Will probably end up doing that for the moment, and get into some more precise methods after my exams. What do you recommend I do? reset everything and do it all manually? I'm definitely up for that, but might need some experience first with some more straight forward projects. EQing my Klipsch LaScala tomorrow (with help from a Klipsch forum member). I don't have a tripod, but I do have a speaker stand that is unused and can easily function as a tripod (it has adjustable height). Could you maybe explain why time delay will result in a flatter response? Are you talking about a full range sweep (where the delayed sub frequencies will arrive at the same time as the main speakers higher frequencies?)
  4. Pushing a horn: how to measure (with an UMIK1).

    Good call! Did not think about that (I doubt they are the same so it's good you mention it).
  5. Pushing a horn: how to measure (with an UMIK1).

    Yeah, I do plan on using it in bigger situations (festival etc), but not with this kind of EQ. This is only for moderate levels, and a temporary situation too till I get my sub 35hz subs. Ok, will try that ! Doesnt the marantz have time delay functions? Also, more importantly. How do I measure the time delay in REW?
  6. Hey I'm planning on using different types of subs together: the horn loaded sub I already have (from 35-80hz) and a different sub for below. When people say there is a mayor advantage in using 2 subs, does this also counts when doing it like I do? Or would I need 2 of each to get the true advantage? Or could I place 2 of them in the front, and 2 to the sides? Or would you need better pics to know that? I can also use measuring gear to test if this is possible.
  7. I recently finished building my horn-loaded cab (see pics below, dont mention all the dust and the weird positioning for now). I also got my UMIK-1 in the mail (what a great day). The builder of the horn tells me it only goes down to 30hz when pushed with EQ, and a decent mic to test. But how do I do this? I have a DCX2496 to do the equalising (or my Audyssey software in my Marantz SR7011 if that suffices). How do I know, beyond what I can hear, if I'm pushing it too low? I'm only listening at very moderate levels (for now) so 80-90db goal for now. I'm using REW for measuring, and I see it has a "subwoofer" EQ option. Is there maybe something better? And if not, how do I use this to get best results? Also, what tests could I do with this kind of gear to get the best sound from this sub? Can I use it to measure best positioning etc?
  8. Good "bass tester" for Xbox-360

    Thanks for the suggestions! I definetely have a copy of the original Battlefront laying around somewhere. Was one of my favorites! Probably have a friend with halo too. Awesome
  9. Does anyone have a recommendation to try out the bass of my system with a Xbox360 game? I already have a few COD games I will try out, but as those games are pretty cheap (to find second hand) I was maybe wondering if there are games that really excel in the low end. A simple enjoyable shooter is preferred, but I'm not a fanboy with specific tastes, so open to all suggestions.
  10. You know, I have a 1000 projects going through my mind that I want to do. I just build my first flat pack, which gives me a good idea of how to get into building one myself. It was not a particularly complex one, but it was a horn loaded sub though. Which mean lots of corners, which had to be airtight. Made some mistakes, but it was a good experience as I now know how to fix them Pretty confident I can build any riser I want. Have also found a seller for my pair of Chorus II (Klipsch) for a crazy sum, which gives me the budget to upgrade the active crossover of my LaScalas (to a Xilica). More importantly, it might lift up the need to go for a cheaper sub than the UM18-22 (which is a great sub for the sealed riser, but also seems immensely good in a ported enclosure. By my calculations it could be tuned to 12hz in a 1000L enclosure which is ofcourse to big, but it could still go down to 15hz in a "reasonable" 494L). That way I could build both the ported and sealed and see how I like them, if I like both I can order another one. Or maybe another 3 Just took some measurements of my couch, and sad to say.. my main couch exists out of several different parts and doesn't really invite baffles that protrude into the couch. I could manage a 12" into the main seating place (which has a feet/leg extension thingy, not sure how to call it in English which makes it extremly dificult to fit something in), and a 15" into the "second" place. Those 2 places are the only ones that matter). I do however have found out that one of the side couches, which I could easily move into the sweet spot, could be what I need. I could stuff a box under it without having to rise it by more than 6cm. I would get a 125L enclosure, which is not very big though. It might just work.. It raises a question however: is it possible to let the sub protrude into the couch, with almost no place on each side? Like stuffing a 50cmx50cm enclosure into a 51cm x 58cm opening into my couch. The air moved by the sub would have almost nowhere to go, which kinda seems like a bad idea (although it can leave through the small 7 and 1cm cracks on the side + through the seating which is just a cushion). I'm only asking because it would be the only way to have an 18" sub build into one of my couches. EDIT: @Infrasonic , I think I overexplained myself a bit. I'm known to go one ramblings about everything, but when done in English about this kind of stuff I'm not beginning to guess how hard it is to understand what I'm actually trying to say. I'm over complicating things haha! Things are also changing all the time, so my mind is all over the place, trying things out and looking for ways to improve. Buuuut, maybe something to add to my big chunk text above here?
  11. Thats a fact, after those are done I have a few weeks/months I can focus 100% on the platform. I'm having a few pairs (2 or maybe even 3) of LaScalas build, should give me that awesome midbass! Depends on how the future goes, but might even use a stack of those/ speaker. First my K-402 h If I use an inch, instead of 2, and place the woofers on top + maybe even get another couch/modify the one I have now (so I would have space between the ground/riser floor and the actual seatings) I might get away with a riser that only rises the couch by 2/3 foot(or less) when using an 18". Should be a lot more easy to place/convince the roommate off. It would also be ideal to use as a riser for a second couch when I want to convert the living into a full blown home-theatre for mass viewings.
  12. I didn't really calculate the amount of power /sub, as I read your AVS thread after posting this! But still lot of (absolute) power, maybe not relatively, but hey with a +db sensitivity you're good to go just put the finishing touches on my PA sub, so gonna be testing it tomorrow! It doesn't dig deep, but it does have a 105db sensitivity รถ It's a shame my exams are getting closer and I literally don't have any time to listen to it You might not believe me, but I've read your build few times now, and Ive never noticed those 18"'ers in the front lol, they are so black! Are those all 15"ers for your LCR? So 12x 15" and 8x 18"s, in the front? I think I love you. What was the purpose of the 2 rear subs? Just extra output? Or also a kind of NF experience? How much place did you leave behind the drivers? Or, how high is the riser from the floor up to the baffle? Doesn't seem to high! I'm guessing, if I want to pull this of I'll have to take the actual in room size of the riser as a priority, and the "ideal" enclosure as a second.
  13. Just went through your build on the AVS forum (again). Awesome stuff man! Those dual opposed subs are the ones in the front? Are those firing away from the listening position? It seems like you have a loooooot of power (and subs). And even you need to turn your riser subs down? Damnnn. PS on an architectural note, it looks your riser is shallower than I remembered.. how much depth do you have? Or to be more precise, how much place is there free behind your sub, and the floor? I was counting in 2 inches, but could that number be reduced?
  14. Yeah, it's because of the discrepancy in audible vs feeling that I'm wondering what I should aim for (as feeling isnt shown in winISD ). But I'm guessing there is also a problem in the ratio between audible and tactile output (as in: that 100db of the same linear output would still not feel the same between subwoofers, which would make it problematic to just compare the output of your riser with the output of your main subs). Would it help to know what kind of power you feed into your riser vs your main subs? (to take room gain out the comparison)
  15. Didnt have any time to look up your previous comment about voltage; but I did model all the models quicky against each other (not sure how to give each curve a color atm). The one that rolls of around 100hz (I might have to recheck those specs) is the B2 Audio sub. If you look at the lower spectrum we have (db wise from top to bottom) the 18" Ultimax (400euro), the Avatar (170euro) and the Pride (130 euro). This was all done in a 100L sealed enclosure. Any thoughts about this @SME ?
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