Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Ricci

  1. Looks like fine progress to me. Just take your time with the build (Measure 2 or 3x and cut once!) and apply advice from others who were in your shoes at one time. It's not that difficult. It just takes some experience and elbow grease.
  2. I use big chunks of mattress foam to block ports all the time. It works just fine. Yes it is a little bit leaky. No you will not be able to hear or tell a difference. Just make sure it's over sized and stuff it in there. Make sure the general shape is the same as the vent. The pieces I use are about 8" thick. I'd go with a 3rd or 4th order high pass at about 13 or 14Hz. Your electronics chain and amps will add a 1st or second order high pass at around 8Hz to begin with. 48dB is a little excessive but IMO but it won't hurt to try it.
  3. Give it a shot. Tuning should be in the 15Hz range. Your sealed will probably only have an advantage below that point. If you went to 4 of them for extra headroom with the lowest tuning I don't think the sealed will have any advantage until very low in frequency. Likely below 13Hz or so. Depending on your room it may be more reasonable to use a tactile transducer setup for the really low stuff rather than throwing piles of sealed subs at it.
  4. The newer drivers with higher xmax and lower Qts lend themselves to compact 6th orders better than the drivers of old. IMHO. At least that's how I ended up on these during the MAUL design process back in late 2014. I'd like to think I had a hand in popularizing this type of 6th order among the DIY crowd and perhaps even the pro market (In this case it's probably a result of form following function). Among the DIY scene they sure seem to have exploded in the last year. There's always been 6th order variations going back decades though. Too many variations to count. There really isn't anything new in audio. Just different spins on the tradeoffs and design choices. The only thing I did different was slot load the drivers and shrink the slot or horn greatly compared to the old pro audio designs. The old pro designs used the volume in front of the driver for huge gain in the >60Hz range but the chamber for the "low end" was basically an afterthought and greatly overpowered by the higher tuned section. HIL is always in effect. I also planned to have multiple tuning options for the low section from the get go, which you don't see on the pro 6th orders. I try to get a reasonably smooth and extended response while still picking up a bit of broadband sensitivity vs direct radiating. I also try to keep the resonances under control and bury the driver noises a bit. A lot of the old 6th order designs were notoriously bad and labeled as 1 note, or boomy so I spend most of the effort making sure it will sound good first and then worry about loud second. I did the same with the Othorn TH back in the day. You have to sacrifice some loudness for bandwidth and smoothness. As far as why 6th's seem to be popular and TH's seem to be less so these days, I'd say it is due to the fact that 6th orders can be smaller than a TH to cover the same bandwidth. TH's are also more tricky to design well and build. Especially once you start attempting to tune them much below 30Hz. A good 6th order system can also be tricky to get right though.
  5. Thanks for giving a quick review. Good set of notes. Sorry I thought I mentioned leaving the handles off on this page! It is recommended to leave the side handles off until the driver is installed. It helps a lot. Extra space and access to the screws. I always use gasket tape on the handles so they can be easily removed. Gorilla glue!? #5 is DB approved. Not sure about the photo limit. I'll ask about it.
  6. I like seeing all of these builds. It is giving me motivation to finally finish off the prints for the slightly more compact sub.
  7. I also had an Inuke amp die within a few weeks of purchase. Behringer will honor their warranty and replace it. If it is out of warranty that is unfortunate. However considering the popularity and number of units in the field there will be some that fail but it seems to be relatively rare. Sorry to hear about your amp.
  8. Probably...Either way the rear wave of the driver is exiting back in front of the driver and the driver is offset back into the enclosure a bit which is TH like. Somewhere between a TH and Tline seems to fit. That is a huge driver and a really big enclosure. Should make some noise.
  9. I could be wrong but to me the response looks TH like after a liberal dose of DSP. There's a notch and a small peak in the 65-80Hz area. A tuning at 20Hz or just above would likely put the "spike" in the 70Hz range. The M-force drivers don't model normal either due to the motor force.
  10. I think it's actually a TH variant. It is hard to tell for sure from the angle of the image but it looks like the driver fires into a throat where the motor is this then splits to the left and right and travels up, down, forward back up and then out from the top of the other side of the driver. I think! It's really hard to tell for sure from the pic. Anyway I'm going with a TH.
  11. I've got a bunch of cab "ideas" but nothing that small. Lacking the initiative to finalize on anything lately.
  12. Welcome to the forum. Impressive work! Thanks for the kind words. I'll check out your links when I get time. Looks like a cool project. I don't have any V-carve files. I don't own a CNC myself. All I can help you with is Solidworks files or other 3d cad file formats if that helps. Maybe one of the other guys will be able to provide some.
  13. Ha! Doesn't bother me in the least but it has been quite the discussion.
  14. I've always used the roller grade Duratex. People used to suggest thinning it out for spraying but I believe that was before they released their own spray version. If the cabs are going to see real "road" use I'd do at least 3 coats with a sprayer. If rolling it the amount of texture in the finish will vary depending on the roller used. A heavier texture with thicker application might be preferred for toughness. YMMV. Either way the stuff is easy to use and clean up isn't too bad. The odor isn't too bad either. Make sure it's at least 55deg or higher when you apply it. It doesn't like cold weather.
  15. Looks good! A pair of these should on that amp should be really hefty under 30Hz.
  16. Excellent posts about general CNC use and settings guys!
  17. Looks great. Yes I would use some lining in the vented section of the cab. Do not use any in the front section. Just make sure to clear the vents well. Happy holidays.
  18. Hello Sakkara...Welcome. In my opinion total speaker size/number of cabinets is most important especially in the bass region. Driver quality and synergy with the cabinets is second. Amplifier quality is 3rd. How many cabs to use depends on the room, application and how loud the average playback level is. For any type of live, DJ, dance club type of situation I'd recommend at least 2 Skhorn's or 4 Skram's or Othorn's as a starting point. Double that amount to really get the place rocking.
  19. 9601's are sold...Thanks Paul.
  20. So far the pro sound MFG's haven't been beating down my door to have >$10K flagship subs tested!
  21. I need to hear one of these M-force systems at some point!
  22. I've never tripped a breaker with a K20 or the K10's . I have only used them on 240v with 30A breaker though. Same with the SP2-12000's. That's the AC I have at home, at the rehearsal space and for the outdoor GP testing. I've only hooked a K20 to 120v one time to check dsp settings. Breakers will pass significant current beyond their rating for a few seconds so it takes a ton of long term power to trip a 30A 240v line. Even the SP2-12000 dumped into 2 ohms per channel at clipping with a long sine sweep didn't do it. Perhaps a few sweeps back to back would've done it eventually. Over here the AC available is usually 120v 15A, 20A or 30A and 240V 15,20, 30 ,40 or 50A. 240V is primarily only used for heavy duty appliances and motors.
  23. I've heard of them but never seen one over here in the states. They seem to have a pretty good reputation among the live sound guys. Not sure these would drive 8 ipals that well. The specs list a couple of things that stand out. 1.6 ohm 10kw rating per channel has a note about calculated as 2ohm + 20%? I didn't see mention of if the power ratings are with all channels driven or not or the duration or signal type. The big spec that jumped out at me is the long term power limit is 16A, so I don't expect it will do very well in a sustained power test. The K20 and K10 allow for settings of up to 32A for example. How useful truly sustained power into low impedances is is up for debate. A lot of people seem to get excellent results out of the modern "stun gun" amplifiers. Seems like this is a good competitor for the X4 and X8. Also check out the Linea research amps. Not necessarily for driving 1 or 2ohm loads but otherwise I've heard a lot of good things about these.
  • Create New...