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Posts posted by Ricci

  1. On ‎1‎/‎19‎/‎2019 at 4:12 PM, Father Francis said:

    So am getting ready to build some OThorns , to go under some Danley SH96 , how many them ,would keep up per side ? this is for  the guys who have built these or do you all just use them at home ? 

    I see I missed this question. How many TH-18's does DSL recommend? That'd be a good place to start. I'd think 2 per side would be a good start. 4 per side would be a whole lot more fun though.

  2. 9 hours ago, Mjhfowler said:

    Heya guys I’m having trouble getting these plans to open properly. Autocad showing them with no sheets or layers. Other cad software returning errors and saying the file is empty etc. 

    SK horn .dxf file opened fine when I tried it as comparison. 


    Anyone else had similar issues? 

    I don't know what the problem is. I just opened every file linked above without issue.

    Perhaps try to contact someone who has already downloaded and built from the plans. Maybe their file will work for you.

  3. 6 hours ago, radulescu_paul_mircea said:

     I managed to explode the final stage of one 44m10 playing my SKhorn XL version using Ipal driver squire fast , but the 20K is way more stable in 2 ohms. The problem was bus pumping from the very high back EMF.

    I would suggest you to used 4 ohm drivers and use each sub on each channel instead of bridging it . This way you will use all the DSP capability of the amp and you can make more configurations like cardio and end-fire. The difference in stability is not big, a bridged class D amp will be a tad more stable at high reactive loads , but the back EMF will discharge in the endstage instead of the capacitors so for the same output power , more heat will be generated.

    Ouch blown amp stages...I've had similar happen with unbridged smps amps. This is partly why I avoid running them like this for heavy duty bass now. It seems to shorten the life span quite a bit and induce more failures. 

     Most of the pro amps I've used seem to be fine on bass duty, half bridged until down around 25 to 30Hz with normal duty cycle music. Lower impedance loads / higher current requirements/ higher sustained power and especially very deep bass frequencies below 25Hz start to cause issues. With usual music primarily above 30Hz you may never notice. I go straight to bridged for subs anymore to avoid the possibility under demanding circumstances. YMMV. 

  4. I did some quick modeling and it looks like the tuning would come in at about 31.5 or 32Hz from the original 28 or 29Hz tune. A little more than I had guessed, but the response doesn't change much. It looks good. I'd say this modification would be barely noticeable if both were side by side and you have a little extra vent area. Go for it. 

  5. If the extra 60mm is added to the vents only it would raise the tuning a bit. I'm not sure how much exactly but I don't think it would be more than a couple of hertz at most. Probably not a big deal.

    I would mainly use the rms limiter and leave the xmax and voltage limiter set out much further. The drivers mentioned here typically will not actually damage themselves mechanically without severe abuse and they audibly let you know first. Also with the standard tuning and a high pass below 25Hz it will take a ton of voltage to induce over excursion. Peak voltages I'd likewise leave set way out. The cab will take it for short term peaks. The main concern is long term heating up of the coils so the rms limiter should be the biggest focus.

    The Linea's look good but I don't have any experience with them yet. Seems like they are getting popular. Looks like that would be a good choice to run 4 Skhorns (or more) per amp. With 4 ohm drivers you can wire 2 channels bridged for a rated 10Kw into a pair of Skhorns.  

  6. I would recommend using an amplifier for large high power woofers. However you don't need to run it as hard as you might think. 1 to 3 volts is plenty. The main thing is load invariance, linear response and freedom from clipping. If you cannot get an amp try to use a good quality headphone output these usually have a better result driving low impedance loads and a bit more current capability than a line level output. Things like the DATS can work in a pinch but the drive level is only a few milli-volts. It's not enough for accurate repeatable measurements on the types of drivers I usually test. IMHO.

  7. All speakers have inherent differences in power handling vs frequency. Its assumed that any serious outfit would work out limiting or amplifier matching depending on content/ use, amps and drivers for their individual case. It depends quite a bit on all of these factors. I can say that with my pair I've beat on them hard and haven't had any issues but I'm not banging off the clip / limiter for 12hrs with extremely compressed content either. YMMV.

    If you have the ability to do true long term power averaging I'd set it to somewhere between 500-1500w depending on drivers to be truly safe but that is a absolutely huge amount of average power with typical music crest factor. Way more than it seems. If you are matching the amp rating to the recommended driver AES power rating range and not exeeding it or running consistently into the limiter it shouldn't be a concern. Running a 9kw rated k20 channel for all it is capable of into a single 21ipal loaded Skhorn with a driver power rating half that wouldn't be recommended. Some common sense is needed. Running about 2 to 5kw of amp per cab depending on the drivers used and application is about right. The amps would be clipping or limiting the peaks well before the average power is reached with normal music.

    • Like 1

  8. 18sound should work also, either the 21id or 21nlw9601. RCF lf21n551 Looks workable. 

    Whichever of these 21's is most cost effective should work well for you. 

    I've never had any trouble with burning up drivers in the Skhorn. Don't think anyone else has. Its got 2 drivers with the highest power handling ratings on the market and a decent air volume and air exchange rate. This was also part of my goals with the design. It will take quite a bit to overheat a pair of 1800w AES rated drivers. Unless you are talking about running a whole bridged amp on each one I wouldn't worry about it. 

  9. Hey Revolt,

    As far as I know no one has run more than 2 cabs yet. This is a significantly more powerful design in a semi compact size than any others I'm aware of on the market. Especially in the 25-40Hz range. 6 or 8 should be devastating. The only things that are likely to compete or exceed these on a 1 vs 1 basis are Danleys largest most expensive subs like the BC415, TH812, or DBH218LF and other major companies top of the line largest, most expensive subs. M-force based systems, etc...As far as subs go you can accomplish a lot with cabinet design and " magic" ,but at the end of the day you need power handling, cone area and the ability for the drivers to move a lot of air via high xmax. Dual top of the line 21's are used for a reason.

    The Faital 18's give up displacement capability, cone area and I've not simulated them or tried them in this cab. Out of what Faital offers the 18XL2000 is probably the best match without giving up too much output. I'd really recommend 21's though. The extra cone area helps out a lot. If cost is an issue the Lavoce SAN214.50 models very well. I'm not sure what it would cost in the UK but here it is very reasonably cost ($450 usd). I have 2 on hand for testing and so far it looks like a lot of driver for the money.

    • Like 1

  10. 23 hours ago, lawbadman said:

    Hey Ricci,

    Will the frequency response for the single be the same as the dual version?

    It will be a bit different. Not hugely but it is a different fold and layout. I increased the size a bit since I'm not worried about keeping it as compact as possible like with the dual 21 Skhorn. Same similar design principles to the MAUL and Skhorn but another totally different cab.

    • Like 2

  11. I've seen it, even posted in the thread. There are many ways to fold this style of cab up. There are a couple of other ones floating around also. Other than that I try not to comment on other people's designs too much. Many times they aren't ever built, or if they are there is never any reliable objective results shown. Who knows.

    In other news I have picked back up on working on a single driver version finally. I've basically got the cab layout and fold nailed down. I just need to decide on bracing and hatch then put the models and print together which takes a bit. Hopefully I'll have it done by the end of the month.

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1

  12. On ‎2‎/‎7‎/‎2019 at 3:30 PM, Leimahmood said:

    on uper post a member mention that u working on a single driver version skhorn so actually my mind was on skhorn

    i have zero idea with building my own box how to calculate driver space and make a box

    can u plzz make a box size for this driver which tuning u think is fine fir these

    i have no problem with big box thanks

    I don't have a single version of the Skhorn style of sub done. I'm going to work on it again soon but it will probably take me months to get the SW's design and prints done and it may not be what you are looking for anyway. It's not supposed to be a HT sub.  I wouldn't wait on it.

  13. Paul,

    We briefly discussed this before but I did receive a pair of 21Ipal's that had a ticking sound coming from inside the motor. It was the first pair I ever received. Sounds exactly like you described almost like diesel a engine and got worse with level. Also that pair had a different gasket material and the BL was quite a bit below spec on them. Almost like an old production run or something. My second set did not behave the same way. BL was up where it should be and no ticking sounds. Bennett exchanged the first set of drivers after I sent some video and explained it to him.

    I still don't know for sure what the ticking sound is. I've never had an issue with any other B&C woofer.

    • Like 1