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Ricci

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Everything posted by Ricci

  1. Ricci's Skhorn Subwoofer & Files

    I just attached the plans to the first post for anyone that wants them. I've had 3 or 4 other people request these plans over in Europe. Hopefully there will be some more documented builds coming up.
  2. Ricci's Gjallarhorn & Othorn Files

    Files posted. I've been meaning to do that for a long time.
  3. Ricci's Gjallarhorn & Othorn Files

    Gjallarhorn 2 plans. GH 2 print.pdf GH 2 print.DXF
  4. Ricci's Gjallarhorn & Othorn Files

    Othorn files. OTHORN print AUTOCAD 2000.DXF OTHORN DXF scale print.pdf
  5. Luke's basic amplifier tests

    This is how Powersoft K series amps operate all of the time. Those guys are smart so you'd have to assume they did that for a reason. This likely only shows up as a measureable improvement when the power draw becomes large and starts to sag the AC line. More useful for pro sound apps where you might have many amps driven hard on one circuit and/or the circuit isn't great to begin with like a generator, etc. Many years ago Ivan Beaver from Danley Sound showed me how to do this at a GTG. Flip polarity of one input channel in the amp and re-flip/correct at the speaker wiring to bring back in phase. Worked pretty good with a Crown CE4000.
  6. (4) Sealed 21": Funk Audio UH-21v1

    Ok. That makes more sense. That sounds similar to my old room over a crawlspace. Little measured SPL at 12Hz but the floor was violently shaking.
  7. (8) Ported Incriminator Audio Judge 21" build

    Man...Another thread hosed by photobucket. Where you at on this project Luke? Working on cab #6?
  8. ZOD Audio M.A.U.L. Test Results and Discussion

    Didn't quite get to all of that but #2 is ready to plug in a speakon cable and rip at least. I won't be moving all of that by myself like I did last time.
  9. (4) Sealed 21": Funk Audio UH-21v1

    I quoted the parts I agree with most. The first paragraph is the same type of thing I have been thinking about the trend of maximum vibration chasing. I don't doubt that having a good FR, lots of SPL AND vibration, are all important aspects to consider. Some of what seems to be being suggested in those threads (That you mentioned) seems like very bad advice to me. I remember someone suggested using smaller vents to increase their particle velocity. With the amount of boost you are using Hulk will be a difficult load on your amps and drivers for sure. The cop car punch is a short but tough signal. I think a 7 or 8Hz fundamental is about right. Without tactile vibration to help transfer the <12-15Hz content it is barely there in my experience. Below 10Hz it's pretty uneventful without a major structural vibration to go with it. It makes all the difference. 32hz at 115dB is very apparent, you feel it and it is loud. 16Hz at 115dB is much less obvious but with that kind of level you can sort of hear it and still feel it. Somewhere around 12-13Hz for me it becomes hard to hear much of anything anymore unless it is strong as hell and even then it's just an odd modulation on everything else. Pressure waves like a rapid on/off switch on the ears. I've heard 12-13Hz at 115dB or so outdoors with test tones and it was subtle. It was like the rest of the background sounds I was hearing were coming from behind a fan. My current HT room is very solid. I get a ton of gain and SPL but very little shake other than from the ceiling. The single digit stuff is an occasional odd pressure sensation if it is very loud and not masked by other content and that's about it. I don't think I would miss much in my room if I only got down to the 10-15Hz range. I expected that you would have a ton of vibration near your notch in the teens. I'm surprised that you don't show more. If the energy isn't being exchanged there where is it going? That should be too low of a frequency for it to be a null induced by the room dimensions.
  10. ZOD Audio M.A.U.L. Test Results and Discussion

    Back from the dead... I finally have the last 4 drivers for the second cab and have been slowly installing them. I should hopefully have the 2nd one ready to plug in late tonight. I am not looking forward to moving everything out and putting these back in the corners. I have to pull the first one back out of the corner, pull the hatches and a couple drivers and rewire it the same as the second too. Lift with the legs...
  11. Faital 15PR400, BMS 4594 MTM

    Sweet...I look forward to following along with the rest of this project.
  12. I liked Kong. I mean it's an action movie about a giant ape fighting other giant creatures so it's not going to be the most cerebral or emotional film ever but it is a fun movie. I thought it was good when taken for what it is.
  13. (4) Sealed 21": Funk Audio UH-21v1

    That is a lot of boost going in from 7-14Hz. That is definitely where your demands on the drivers and amps is going to be heaviest. Looks like a boundary related loss over that range for sure. At least it should cause a big tactile shake though. I'd bet that a vibration test picks up strong signals in that range.
  14. (4) Sealed 21": Funk Audio UH-21v1

    That looks pretty good. Do you have a response with no signal shaping at all? How much are you using to get the responses shown above? Are you on a suspended floor? I forget.
  15. (8) Ported Incriminator Audio Judge 21" build

    This PB thing seems to be hosing everyone's threads.
  16. Upcoming Testing Possibilities?

    33" driver...Wonder what that thing costs? the 24's and 30's seem to be proliferating lately.
  17. JTR Speakers Captivator 118HT

    All of the test data and notes for this bad boy are now viewable. Enjoy.
  18. I finally got around to groundplane testing these drivers about 4 years after getting them. Results for a pair of them wired in series in the old DO cab are uploaded. K20 still couldn't quite get to the absolute limits. It doesn't like wanging everything it has into 1ohm per channel for some reason. Any discussion of the drivers or test results should go here please.
  19. Thanks for the link. I just read it with translate. They did an excellent job on the build.
  20. Awesome! You have a nice open place to test speakers. Thanks for posting the video. I see you went with the IPAL's. How do you like the Othorn so far? You are from Europe from what I recall?
  21. B&C 21DS115

    I would love to participate in a blind test group. Whether it be speakers, subs or even amplifiers. I think it would be a fun way to find out how good my listening skills really are or aren't. Something like a large AT screen setup to hide the equipment in a quiet outdoor setting would be great to eliminate room acoustics. Have a test group take notes and apply ratings on a 1-10 scale in a variety of subjective categories. Take measurements of each setup to match up with the listener notes and scores afterwards. It would be great if someone did a serious GTG just for this purpose. I'm in the same boat. Sometimes I watch movies near REF with the subs 6dB hot just for fun or demoing for my friends and the bass is punishing, making me curious of how close to the limits I am. Then I look at my signal lights on my K20's and realize they are barely lighting the -15 light and the 19's might as well be taking a nap. Same deal with the ghetto-rich warehouse stereo with the MAUL's. I just now got the money together and got the drivers for the 2nd cab. I've been running one on a old 4Kw rated amp and it's already more than we use unless I'm being stupid to show off with bass tracks in which case the old Crest amp just waves the white flag. Once I get the second cab in there and the big amps that'll add another 12dB of headroom that I need because...Winning??? At least the output should be clean. Scott, You have to be in the same situation right? Are your signal lights even on most of the time? I can't see how they would be with the 77 JBL woofers or whatever madness you have going on.
  22. B&C 21DS115

    Opinions vary on this. Firstly are we talking a comparison between drivers or systems? If differing systems are being compared, I agree there can be audible differences even when both are loafing at very low levels. For example comparing a small sealed cab to a huge tapped horn. It would be very difficult to get the 2 to match the same response shape and timing characteristics exactly. Even just the cab shape / size / difference in radiation points could be a factor. Comparing just bass drivers would correctly be done with both in exactly the same cab, same environment, same electronics, same content, etc. I would even say that the nominal driver size should be the same. IOW 15 vs 15 or 18 vs 18 if we are getting really particular about it. If the cabs are different and the frequency response is unshaped and differs between the two, there could easily be an audible difference even at very low playback levels. But...If the only thing changed is the driver like outlined above AND the frequency response is equalized to be as close as possible, including say an octave above the low pass filter, in my estimation you would have an extremely difficult time correctly identifying which was which in a blind comparison. Provided both are operating well below what they are capable of. Notice that I said blind...Visual queue's can have real impact on what we hear and our enjoyment. All that said we are talking about bass and bass takes a lot of displacement to reproduce. People also typically push bass harder than the rest of the frequency range. Sure when you are listening to some light music in the background and the peaks are 95dB you might be using 5% of the system and all is well. Sound and SPL is logarithmic and by the time you get to peaks requiring 115-120dB at the seats the subs are going to be well into the point where the sound has started degrading whether you can hear it or not. I guess what I'm saying is subwoofers are called to operate much closer to their limits more often than not so they are often well into the point where some of these distortions are starting to add up. Bass is addicting. No one I know has 4 18's to listen to elevator folk at 80dB all the time. That's why people claim that more expensive more powerful drivers sound better. IMO they do. The cheaper driver starts to lose it earlier or in some case VERY early or perhaps never even has it to begin with and starts to degrade or change the sound. The more expensive / powerful driver is still at the loafing stage while the cheap one is hitting a wall. Adding more cheap drivers, for the extra headroom to match the single big money driver, could result in sound that's just as good or better in many cases. If you've got a ton of room and not much cash go with a ton of cost effective drivers. If you've got very little space but a fat wallet you will have to pay to get the most you can from the limited space. Some people have a good amount of space and a healthy budget, then there are the poor souls who have no space available and not much money. It's a sliding scale from both ends of the spectrum.
  23. B&C 21DS115

    Exactly...There are operational noises not captured in there. Overload characteristics and ruggedness. Also good old linear displacement. Not much good as a sub driver if it falls apart past 8mm excursion. Based on my goals I'd not want to be running it much past 5mm and that don't make much bass.
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