Infrasonic

Sure. I mean, it's mostly a ~30hz extended movie with 1.5secs of massive ULF. But yeah, I guess it is unfiltered.

Lookin' good! Nice response too. That would even be a nice response post EQ.

Well.... shit.

Yay! Oh, I love seeing these EBS/LLT style subwoofers hitting the market. Way to go, Jeff P!

Option #3: Use active crossover to mate each Cat to a pair of Othorn's as bass cabs. Set fullrange bass management in AVR. Highpass Othorn's if need be. ULF content in mains be damned. Use all Terraforms purely for LFE channel. Haha, these hypotheticals are fun! But seriously so much damage can be had with this system. I love it.

Suhweet! Did you happen to record this thunder? Ever listen to the Danley fireworks recording?

Lol... guess there aren't enough Top Gear fans reading. 😛 Yeah, Oblivion has got a nice amount of sub-20hz bass good for a Bass-EQ for sure. The Jurassic Park movies, not so much real deep stuff. Not sure which JP movie you were watching. I think JP3 has the most powerful deep bass of all of them.

Mmmm... A gear list like that makes me get a fizzy sensation somewhere behind my penis but not in my prostate. Does anyone else get a fizzy sensation behind their penis or is it just me? 🤣

Ah yes. It can be difficult to move these large subwoofers around. Especially by oneself... Do you have a dolly or handtruck handy? Though tedious, removing the driver from the cabinet would lighten them up real good. 😛 Did you purchase pre-made speakon cables or make them yourself? All my subs and LCR's are hooked up with Speakon but I made the cables. (just bulk cable that I terminated each end with a purchased set of speakon plugs. nothing special.) That's okay if you can't do it right now. Do the best you can with what you have available. Though in the grand scheme of things HT-related, having some cables on hand is pretty affordable and will aid in setup of your system to it's fullest. I mean, if that's the sort of thing holding you back.

Trying for yourself any physical location that seems practical enough for you. You don't need any one on the internet to help you out with this part. Setting up two subs at the same time can be quite involving. I'd suggest measuring/testing one at a time (took make things easier). You will find an ideal location easier for one. For simplicity sake, you can even stack the 2nd sub on top of the first. Eventually you will find that a spot works rather well, then you can try and integrate the 2nd sub. Doing it this way will probably take more time but you will make less mistakes. Another tip is to treat two sub locations as one. If you can place the subs in locations that are equidistant then setting up delay/distance/phase will be easier and applicable to both physical enclosures. Likewise, you can EQ them as a "single" unit. This will also aid in the simplicity and less chances for mistakes. Trust me, I've been through it.

Sounds interesting! Not sure if that's a link or what you put there but it's not working at the office. Will check again at home.

Dude. Shrink that dB range. It's a whopping 20dB per division!!! You need to set it to about 5dB per division. It will, of course, make your response look .... much worse. But it's for a good cause! Trust me. Smoothing? It's up to you. Don't go any more coarse than 1/6 which is a good way presenting an entire frequency response to a discussion but not very useful for doing the nitty-gritty, which you're deep into now. I usually go fully unsmoothed (or barely smoothed like 1/24) until I've knocked out the bad stuff. Then I usually go with 1/6-1/12 just cuz it makes it easier to read and towards the end of your journey (being real for a moment) isn't as necessary because... who cares. Posting a frequency response of one's system with no smoothing is pretty annoying and not very useful to anyone unless you're trying to troubleshoot. So.. at first, use no smoothing. Then after you have done most of the PEQ work, there is little need NOT to smooth. If that makes sense. Repost with better graphs and we can move onto the next section.... 5-200hz is a great bandwidth to look at while measuring your subwoofer system. You want at least an octave above and below the operating range to make sure things are integrating well (on the top end) and how well the extension is.

These are sealed subs so you don't need to worry about setting any highpass filter or anything. At least not yet. Also "EQ'ing" below 20hz isn't really all that necessary. However, boosting the lowend with a shelving filter would be useful and the corner frequency for that does not require to be under 20hz and likely somewhere in the 20-35hz area. So that's that. You will have to measure your response and go from there. Setting up a new system will require some trial and error. Placement also depends on the geometry of the room and where you will have the MLP. Measure any location(s) you can or want. Don't just guess or simulate it. See what actually performs the best.

Damn. That is refreshing to hear...read. Keep it up! I agree btw.

Haha. My bad. I think it should have said, "spectrum of movie titles". If all you do is watch rom-com's from the 90's, you're not going to find a lot of ULF. I'm slowly losing my mind.... it's okay. I won't say there are "many more" unfiltered movies than umm...filtered movies because I'm starting to wonder if your idea of "unfiltered" means a flat PvA curve... Everything we hear in movies is 100% studio creation so they are under no obligation to be flat-to-DC type extension in their audio mix in every single release. Is it really a surprise that the overall curve of most movie's bass PvA looks very similar to the capabilities of pro-style cinema sub-bass systems? I agree with your last sentence.