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dgage

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Everything posted by dgage

  1. dgage

    The Bass EQ for Movies Thread

    Space physics! Duh!
  2. dgage

    Othorn - HT capable?

    Haha. Yes my definition of a smaller subwoofer is completely asinine. I think my skewed definition took hold when I first heard the SI HS24. Lol! Now I often have customers contacting me wanting a single 24 and I’ll often try to steer them toward a pair of “smaller” 18” subs for more even bass response. But really, a pair of 18” sealed are really impressive with output easily in the 120s with the ability to play down to 10Hz flat in room. Of course the room and more importantly, the floor have a huge impact on how impressive the sub system. Large sealed subs on a wood floor are oh so impressive but not nearly as impressive on a concrete slab.
  3. dgage

    Othorn - HT capable?

    I've stayed out of this conversation since I'm not a ported or horned guy and haven't heard a horn in an optimal setup yet. But for me, multiple smaller subs is preferred and recommended to get more even bass response in the room. Regarding how bass is perceived, if we compare an 8" midbass driver with a 12" midbass driver at the same volume, the impact of the 12" is noticeable over the 8". I'm not sure what the physics are but I liken it to a towel being snapped, maybe the 12" snaps quicker because it doesn't have to move as far as the 8" driver to reach the same volume. However, I haven't noticed a difference in impact between my 18" and 24" sealed subs so maybe the impact doesn't translate at (much) lower frequencies or I'm not doing it right.
  4. dgage

    Horn length extension on Othorns?

    Geez, just wall it off and get a rotary sub already. Now that is some bass headroom!
  5. dgage

    Rockford Fosgate T3 19 discussion

    This is what I make my wife and kids wear when watching a movie with me. And it’s what I wear when doing any work around the house or shop. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NKSMPZW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 David
  6. dgage

    Xarion Laser Acoustics

    Can you tell us by how much we can’t afford this?
  7. dgage

    Woofer for 40-250Hz?

    Many people have used the JBL 2242H and 2226H drivers for midbass both sealed and ported. They are solid drivers, easily available on eBay, but I don’t know there is anything that sets them apart from the BMS or AE, especially if they are more expensive or harder to get. And I’ve also used the AE for midbass drivers and they are really nice too.
  8. dgage

    Woofer for 40-250Hz?

    I have similar JTR 212 HT-LP and use the JBL 2226H drivers. I actually bought a bunch of JBL 2226H drivers for a project I never got around to and need to put them on eBay. Really impressive midbass in a pretty small cabinet though that AE cabinet looks pretty modestly sized for this board.
  9. dgage

    B2 Audio XM18 vs Dayton Ultimax UM-1822

    You act like you know so much about Obsidian. Hint - Electrodynamic was also the owner of Obsidian but decided to combine the car and home audio offerings under the Stereo Integrity brand.
  10. dgage

    B2 Audio XM18 vs Dayton Ultimax UM-1822

    I was thinking of my follow up response. I kept thinking, sure a couple 18s would be phenomenal and may fit into his budget now. If you were to buy 4 HST-18s, you’d have one of the best subwoofer systems on the continent. Or a pair of HS-24s would do the same though the quad 18s in the corners would provide more even bass in most rooms. Realize that we’re talking about bass systems in the top 1% in the entire world. That is going to cost some money but then again, is a value compared to what most uninformed consumers pay for their “high-end” audio equipment. Either way, this system should last you 10 years and likely many more than that so I’m of the opinion to save your money and get what you want. Or even better, start with a pair of 18s and add a pair of 18s later and you have almost the equivalent of a pair of 24s and more even bass. Or buy a pair of 18s now and add a pair of HS-24s later where the 24s would be up front and the 18s in back. And if you want the real deep bass and smaller cabinets, that would be sealed and I oh so love the sound and tactile feedback of my sealed 18s and 24s. Then again, if you’re not interested in single digits or are on concrete, then a ported 18 may be the way to go. You’ve definitely have some options and won’t go wrong listening to the experts on this forum.
  11. dgage

    B2 Audio XM18 vs Dayton Ultimax UM-1822

    Thanks. Not familiar with the IB-24 but I’ve heard both HS-24 models, BHS-24 (130lb beast!), both HST-18s, HST-15, HT-18, and BM MK IV(12” car). All of them were high quality and high performing. Even more important to both of us, me for business and you for distance, the subs have been very reliable though I would recommend having Nick go through an extended burn-in period in your case. I have no reason to doubt the IB-24 as it shares the same pedigree with which I am so enamored.
  12. dgage

    B2 Audio XM18 vs Dayton Ultimax UM-1822

    I’m a biased fan of the SI HS-24 driver but I also have more experience with it than just about anyone as I’ve measured it in many different rooms of different shapes, sizes, and construction. My 24s have measured flat to 7 Hz in every room except one, which was flat to 6 Hz. And I haven’t had a customer with my 24s get near their full output capability, which is easily in the 120s depending on the frequency. So it really depends on what you’re looking for. If you want effortless output above 15Hz then I’d recommend ported like LukeAmdMan did. If you’re willing to give up some output capability (efficiency) to gain full extension, then I’d highly recommend the 24 in a sealed enclosure between 300 and 400 L. And it really is easy to DSP the sub to be flat as the mk II driver has a mild inductance hump. Take a look at my website (Deep Sea Sound) to see how flat I was able to get the HS-24 using 3 minor DSP settings. Regarding sound quality, the HS-24 mk II is up there with any on the market. I used to own the TC LMS-5400, which was lauded as one of the cleanest, lowest distortion drivers, so much so that some people didn’t like it as it was “too clean”. Most people aren’t familiar with low distortion bass and the LMS-5400 was definitely clean. I put my LMS subs up against the HS-24 mk I on multiple occasions and the 24 had more output than a pair of LMS-5400s and didn’t give up anything in regards to sound quality. The HS-24 mk II driver is even better than the original in all regards except power handling, which is the same. I don’t think you can go wrong with the HS-24 sealed but it really depends on what you want. I don’t know about ported as I’m not interested in working with refrigerator size cabinets and as I said previously, my customers haven’t needed any more output than a pair of 24s provide.
  13. dgage

    Ricci's Gjallarhorn & Othorn Files

    And then whatever number you come up with for dollars or hours, double or triple it.
  14. dgage

    X-curve compensation re-EQ

    Haha. No to a ported 24. I don’t want to deal with moving and shipping huge refrigerators.
  15. dgage

    X-curve compensation re-EQ

    For the mixing/studio room silly. But hey, most theaters only do 30Hz and up so maybe a single ported 24 would be plenty.
  16. dgage

    X-curve compensation re-EQ

    Infrasonic, can I get your friend's address so I can send a 24 so your friend can learn to mix the feature films CORRECTLY.
  17. dgage

    Bulding the Room2 listening room

    I often tell people with most speakers, the speaker will get unhappy before you but with mine, you’ll get unhappy before the speakers. My speakers are JTR 212s with compression drivers/horns. I couldn’t go back to regular (non-horn) speakers now. But the CDs have to be smooth and detailed, which so far has meant higher quality compression drivers.
  18. dgage

    Bulding the Room2 listening room

    You should have seen the reaction to my room at T.H.E. Show Newport in LA with my 60” TV sitting on top of a 24” subwoofer flanked by a pair of JTR 212 HT-LPs sitting on top of a pair of JBL 15” midbasses. They were going to leave because of the TV but made the disgusted faces when seeing the 24” sub. Because physics fails when a 70 lb magnet-motor moves a 24” 1.3 lb cone. Lol! Interesting story about the doc. I’ve had plenty of similar conversations and it usually doesn’t go very far if they’re “audiophiles”. And frankly I’m not that interested in fighting those ingrained beliefs. Life is too short for those with closed minds...about any subject.
  19. dgage

    New CEA 2010 in room Measurements.

    That link doesn’t work for me. As as far as I know, he is still following this methodology, which is traditional ground plane testing in the middle of a field. This is also how most subwoofers are tested. http://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/powered-subwoofer-testing-outline-and-procedures-overview The only real alternative is testing in an anechoic chamber but those are hard to come by and would be $100,000+ to build right. Testing in the room would not be testing the sub, it would be testing the sub AND the room. Not very valuable since we likely don’t have the same room available as he tested in.
  20. dgage

    Moving massive / unwieldy subs?

    MemX - that cart is not designed for stairs and I expect would quickly break. Like LilMike mentioned, you want an appliance dolly like you’d use to move a refrigerator or washer. And then strap horizontally around the dolly just below the handles. And then strap vertically around the sub and appliance dolly support plate so the person below the dolly can help lift the sub going up and down.
  21. dgage

    Moving massive / unwieldy subs?

    I have some experience moving large subs unfortunately. Get yourself a decent hand truck (not the stair climbing gimmicks) and a ratchet strap (endless or continuous would be best so you don’t have to deal with the hooks). Just strap the thing down vertically and then you can pull up with the truck handles and the other person can lift the sub or the bottom of the hand truck to go upstairs. Or pay someone to move them for you, which would be my vote. Lol! EDIT: would probably recommend a second ratchet strap vertically to strap the sub to the bottom support tray, which would then allow the lower person to lift the sub more easily. And rubber coated gloves grip smooth veneered surfaces well.
  22. By the way, I delivered a pair of my 18” subs the other day and when he was giving me a demo on his suspended floor I told him the Crowson’s gave a nice effect. The next day, he told me the Crowson’s had been turned off when he gave the demo. If on a suspended floor, I would go with some sealed subs, which will also give you plenty of tactility. If you’re on concrete, I’ve done some testing regarding different building techniques for putting wood over concrete to get more tactility. http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/2443450-comparison-wood-platforms-concrete-tactile-bass.html
  23. Crowsons have some nice and natural feeling effects. Buttkicker, at least the ones I’ve heard, are not as nuanced and so are quite noticeable in their effects. For me personally it would be Crowsons or nothing based on my limited listening of a few Buttkicker systems vs the single Crowson system I heard.
  24. dgage

    Maximum horn compression ratio?

    Thanks guys. Appreciate the in depth response and sorry for the off topic. Interesting to read and learn but I’m not as interested in being able to design drivers further than I know what I want something to do. Cool stuff as always on Data-Bass. The guys on this forum are amazing.
  25. dgage

    Maximum horn compression ratio?

    Thanks for the lesson guys. The knowledge level here is amazing. I know that's pretty basic for you guys but I'm just fine with having other people design drivers for me and with knowledgeable people like all of you, can you blame me.
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