Jump to content

dgage

Members
  • Content Count

    304
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    34

dgage last won the day on October 21 2019

dgage had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

109 Excellent

About dgage

  • Rank
    Ultra Member

Recent Profile Visitors

748 profile views
  1. Thanks. Very cool. How thick of plywood can you cut through with the 150w laser? And how fast is it in terms of inches per minute (or mm :))?
  2. Very cool. I usually do full size tests, hadn't thought enough about doing smaller scale. Can you share more about your machine especially laser power? And is the laser able to do those dados by simply reducing the power? How consistent is the dado depth via that method? Really cool!
  3. You probably didn’t mean higher frequencies but just to be clear for others, unsupported enclosure walls resonate lower and may start to get into the range of the subwoofer and then we might start to hear them as bad bass harmonics. Think of it as larger drums play deeper and smaller drums play higher. With bracing, we’re actually trying to make the unbraced areas smaller, which will push the panel resonances up into the higher frequencies and out of the range of subwoofer bass. The other thing I’ll say about bracing is to purposely make them uneven. If you place a long brace dead center in a panel, you’re breaking the panel into two halves with the exact same resonant frequency and then doubling the amplitude of that resonant frequency since there are 2 halves. So work on unequal bracing with maybe 45/55 instead of 50/50. And like SME stated, plan on bracing every 6-8”. This will push the resonant frequencies of the panels to around 400-500 Hz and out of the passband of a subwoofer. Looking forward to seeing this project come to fruition.
  4. You might be better served asking over at the DIYAudio site as many over there discuss speaker designs and speaker modifications. Now Tom Danley is a true innovator in loudspeaker design but fortunately for you the SH-100B looks to be a more simple design. But even with the speaker being of a simple design, it likely won’t be as easy as simply replacing the coax with a better coax. You’ll need to worry about sensitivity and the crossover so at a minimum I think you’ll need to redo the crossover. With that said, I really wish Danley focused on more of the home theater market with slightly more detailed top end character. I think if you were able to finish this project by utilizing a better coaxial, it should make quite a difference in the detail of that speaker. Note: I haven’t heard this speaker but I’ve heard several Danley designs and felt they had rolled off top end (measurements showed this as well) as well as missing some articulate detail, which is the basis for my improvement comments. Overall I feel Danley makes some amazing speakers that could be even better with a more detailed top end.
  5. By the way, I didn’t mean to come off as a jerk if I did. Simply meant that those are fine subwoofers but there are some pretty special subwoofers out there that you should experience too. Sorry, I am not familiar with that particular driver but you could just build an enclosure of the same size as the original REL. To really design a different size or different type of enclosure (ported for instance), you’d need to get the Thiel-Small parameters for that driver.
  6. JTR and Seaton are over in Chicago, you may want to see if you can experience their subwoofer designs. REL and SVS make fine subs and products, both good companies but they don’t quite have the firepower many strive for on this site. You will also find there are many very knowledgeable people on this site that develop their own high-powered subwoofer designs that are extremely capable and great-sounding. And in my opinion and many others on this site, lots of bass means nothing if it doesn’t sound detailed and articulate. I hope you stick around and share your knowledge.
  7. My commercial subs are just under 9 cf with 4,000w continuous and like I said, flat to 7 Hz with a Linkwitz Transform and room gain. So 10-12cf should give you plenty of low-end output but not as much above 40 as if you went ported but the 40+ Hz would really only be usable in venues as they’d be too loud for a home theater in my opinion. So the sealed 10-12 cf is straight forward and a proven performer while not being TOO big.
  8. No way the 24 would work well in 3 cf, my guess is you’re getting the 18 confused as that works well in 3-4 cf. For the 24, I wouldn’t go smaller than 8 cf and you do get a little lower extension going 10-12 cf, which would be my recommendation. Then again, I usually recommend to my customers multiple 18s over a single 24 for more even bass response in the room. It I think you already have the 24s.
  9. My sealed HS-24 based subs are flat in-room to 7 Hz at reference. 7 Hz has been measured in over a dozen rooms at this point and one room was flat to 6 Hz as the sub was corner-loaded with 2 exterior walls. So there is something to be said for Josh’s recommendation of a simple sealed enclosure for these subs. Yes you lose some 25+ Hz output compared to the efficiency of ported but below 20-25Hz, the sealed should have more output isn’t a Linkwitz Transfrom. Multiple subs would be needed to make up for the porting efficiency but that would be worthwhile for more even bass response anyway.
  10. I thought you were doing a really nice build but that 85 degree port is unacceptable and you probably need to start over. Just kidding. I think it looks great. Great job and you should be very happy.
  11. Fair enough, incompetence may have been the wrong word and unfair but I’m not sure what other word I’d use. We don’t know what sort of time or pressure these people are under to deliver these soundtracks but we have to say that some of the results are simply poor. Even for regular systems some of the results are poor with blanket filters. I just think about me putting my name on something or releasing something. It should have a certain level of quality and I feel the quality in some of these soundtracks is absolutely poor. This is a pet peeve of mine and has been for several years so I will refrain from further comment. To me the differences between different types of tracks on a particular soundtrack is minor compared to some of the more egregious issues with some of the soundtracks released.
  12. That ported design on Nick’s site is for car enthusiasts that want to get the most bass response from their sub. I agree that 29 Hz tuning is too high. There are generally two camps of home theater subwoofers enthusiasts, those that are content with 20+ Hz bass content and those that want the ability to reproduce bass below 20 Hz. With my 24” subs, obviously I’m in the under 20 Hz camp and feel there is a lot of content there. But even if you’re in the 20Hz camp, a 29 Hz tune is way too high for home theater in my opinion. You’ll be missing many explosions as there is a lot of movie content under 30 Hz. IMO, you’d be better off buying a few more subs and going with sealed. Extra amp channels is fairly cheap and those subs aren’t too expensive. Plus you‘ll gain the benefit of more even bass from more subs in the room. Use the Multiple Subwoofer Optimizer to align them and you’ll have deep, even bass throughout the room. You could always start with 2 subs and add more later if you want more output and more even bass throughout the room. That’s what I’d do and what I’d recommend. https://www.andyc.diy-audio-engineering.org/mso/html/index.html
  13. And it expired today so someone can take off with it if they so desired.
×
×
  • Create New...