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About menace

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  1. I need to comment on this again! I threw a wee birthday celebration party for my self over the weekend and ran the subs right up until the limit at times. I didn't go out of my way to take extra observations but i cant say i ever heard the vibrations this time around( and i was very close to them at times). I defiantly did hear noises from them another time though. So I am guessing this solution can work, perhaps with a heavier gauge wire mesh and/or a better fixing technique.
  2. I need to report back on how this solution turned out. Some vibration! So until I play around some more it should be noted that this didn't work.
  3. Good to hear they are working well with 100hz LPF. Does that mean you wont need the kick bins anymore? What are the box things under your tops?
  4. Thanks for replying that answered my questions...
  5. Ultimately this has to come at a cost to efficiency and/or extension..... On another note, do you think you will ever finish the pale-horn design/drawing? Or do these hybrid designs totally supersede your interest now?( will be interesting to see the final analysis ie your measurements of an SKram loaded with 21sw/21ds vs the old othorn measurements). Also this may have been covered somewhere else but whats the theory to these hybrid designs, obviously there is bass reflex... but how does the horn part work together with the bass reflex? There is the compression ratio working as a cushion against the driver? What about the horn length, how is that fitting in?
  6. This is what I have come up with so far. Was thinking of fixing the mesh at the end of the mesh that's easy to get at with screws and washers and the other end will kind of grip into the wood by the sharp ends it has from being snipped to size. The mesh is about 1.6mm strand size, its easy enough to bend by hand but will still have a bid of tension on it from being pulled into position by the screws. What do you guys think? Could it vibrate perhaps?
  7. how much is the mod? I can't help but think if the water cooling was a thing then they would be offering a solution them selves(powersoft/b&c)? And how did you go about contacting powersoft directly for this? They have quite a few OEM things that are pretty interesting!
  8. Timon. I am interested in your cheap source for ipal and mod? Active cooling, does the lag between coil/air/magnet allow this to be practical?
  9. Ah in side the box further down the port/horns. That sounds like quite a good idea as wouldnt need to bother with asthetics and it leaves the mouths to be used as handles.... I'll give that some thought....
  10. What do people think about speaker grills for these? It would seem they would alter the tuning some? Any thoughts?
  11. Not that I can see. At least not any more. If it's true I trust you only reported after purchasing....
  12. I would though say that less plies will almost always be worse! As for Baltic vs other birch, this should be an important distinguishing factor and having not seen the other birch ply i would imagine they should not be compared. Wikipedia list 50+ species with in the genus and imagine there will be chalk and cheese like differences among them. Growth rate according to geographic location and the correct species will mean everything!
  13. Pinus radiata plantations down her are big business and there is about four mdf plants largely for export and at least two are owned by the Japanese. I am though surprised that Europe buy economy of scale alone doesn't at least equal our prices....... Anyway going a bit too much off topic now I think. Sorry OP....
  14. It has to be said that you Europeans are very lucky being so close to the baltic. The story in new zealand is very different, 18mm mdf 25 euro and 18mm BB ply 110 euro(2440x1220 sheets).
  15. Baltic birch is the only option. Its so strong, I made a small sub box out of 12mm and once i put a few braces in it was easily strong enough.
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