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chrapladm

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Everything posted by chrapladm

  1. For me the best value is the 21SW152 drivers. If you can get those cheap then there ya go. I have based all my opinions on Hornresp simulations. I tend to simulate a LOT to hopefully one day build something. I will be building my own Skhorn in Aug/Sept using the 21SW152's. Probably have to wait until Xmas to have the SP6000 amp to power the sub though. For BC options I would have to say these are the best option from best budget to the ultimate option. 18TBW100 18NW100 18SW115 21SW150 21DS115 21SW152 21IPAL If I had 21IPAL money I would see if I could get a pair of 5100's. But thats me. The other option would be to get in touch with Funk and ask if he can make some more powerful (Bl) custom drivers. I asked about this before and he did say it was possible for a good price. I looked at trying to find a 5100 equivalent and it looked like Funk could build me one for around $1000 or less. That is less than a 21IPAL and less than the 5100. Lots of options though.If you have something specific I will simulate it and show you the comparison to the SW152 if needed.
  2. The 18PZB100 doesnt look bad at all in the Skhorn. It rolls off earlier than the 21SW152 but only a few hz. But is very flat similar to the 21SW152. The 21/18TSAD and 18GUJ are all very peaky. I dont think they look that good but I guess could be EQ'd to suit. Still wish the 5100 was available. These drivers look good also. FP 18HW1070 Beyma 18SW1600Nd BC 18TBW100 looks ok also. Rolls off a bit earlier but not a LOT different then the PZB. I have been simulating almost every driver for this design. I looked at trying to build a single driver version also for my living room. Tried to see if I could get the design to not get too big but perform similar to the 21DS115 in 350l 15hz.
  3. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    Does it really need that much space. I remember looking at doing 15cuft for 15hz and around 10/11cuft for 20hz. So 20cuft seems like that is more than is needed going by memory. Although I was looking at the SW152. DS115 does simulate very similar though. I am away for work so I cant look at comparisons on simulations to help sorry.
  4. Hopefully your single version takes advantage of being a single driver version and perhaps a slightly larger version also.
  5. You would have some port chuffing with the 19hz tune and using the 21's. BUT since the 18's dont move as much air as the 21's you will most likely be fine with 19hz tune and using the 18's. Thats what I was saying in my earlier post.
  6. I would suggest, if you have the room, build the Skhorn. Build some adaptor plates in case you decide to upgrade. PLUS when using the 19hz tune you want have to worry about port noise with the 18's.
  7. I just happen to have this comparison. That is the 21SW152 max SPL verse the 18LW2400 Max SPL. I can show a 1 watt for the LW2400 if needed. The 2400 does roll off sooner as you can see.
  8. Also glad to see you got a quote you can live with and building it out of great ply. Ricci is it best to ask Skhorn "versions," questions here. And will you be looking at designing a single driver version?
  9. Wow thats crazy for a delivery charge. My plywood will cost me about $75each at the cheapest place for a B/C sheet each. SO things starting getting expensive when you need multiple sheets. Its also why I havent started my Skhorn yet. Baltic Birch would probably cost me about 200 a sheet. SO ya I tend to build a lot of things also in MDF.
  10. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    SO the first model is the 21DS115 vs SW152. It some areas the DS looks better. I pushed both to about 20mm but I was just doing a quick sim from what I had. Then I selected the lossey Le in Wizard and you can see the DS in black verse the Le in red. Not a huge difference but enough to make sure you simulate it is all. For me the DS115's are about the same price as the 18IPAL's. So thats why the DS's are very interesting. I am not ready to buy any more speakers for now since I still have to finish my Skhorn first. BUT I do want another pair of horns to build come January. I just keep forcing myself to make a reason to get the IPAL's.
  11. For me the option is the Alpine SWS 15 or 18IPAL. Amp wise I dont have an issue there because most amps can handle 2ohms. BUT when I find something I will build using the 18IPAL I am looking at just using a SP 4000 amp. PLUS I will be buying one for my Skhorn build anyways. Look to see real world how the IPAL does in the Xoc1 TH118. I dont have the plans on Toms design but dont mind building the clone.
  12. Will be interesting to see what your results are. I do like the IPAL but havent been able to make a design that warrants the extra cost yet.
  13. Wow did they really use the 18ID driver? Not a fan of that design. I do like the 18IPAL. I just need to come up with a design that can hit crazy SPL and go low enough for me to warrant buying them. 21's are only 100 more roughly.(SW152)
  14. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    I couldnt remember if we were using the lossy Le option or not. When doing so it definitely changes things. Ported cabinets it didnt matter too much but in this horn it did.
  15. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    Not sure if the large VC option needs to be selected when simulating the DS115. If so then the DS wont work in the Othorn. BUT if not then yes it will work just fine in the Othorn. But I would wait to hear back from Ricci. I know the DS115 does not perform the same at all in a few simulations so not 100% on the two being that close. Simple ported they will work just fine.
  16. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    I have a pair of 21SW152's ready to go in a Skhorn. Also in a few months am looking at possibly ordering a pair of 21DS115's for indoor subs.( Just using them in ported 14hz cabinets.) If plywood wasnt so expensive here I would have built a LOT of subs by now. BUT its around 70 or more dollars minimum for a sheet. SO I dont do much but read and then finalise what I am going to build. Have some TH50 clones that can use a few drivers also but I am thinking that the Skhorn will be more than enough for now so those will be put to the side. Also the first thing I will be buying in the next month or so will be a AV700 from Denon. Or whatever its called. Once I get that I can start building my other speakers. I still need amps also. Its a very slow road for me as funds are projects are usually nonexistent. So I tend to talk a lot and build very slowly. I do feel bad at times for taking so long to do build some of my wants. Did some google searches and found my old posts about me and some of my sub builds. Years back and I am still almost starting my build. Hopefully by Xmas this year I will at least have a 2.1 setup outdoors finished and a 4.2 indoors.
  17. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    I would love to compare the BMS 18 monster with the FP 18XL1800 or 18DS115. BUT for me the SW115 in 18 is the same price as the DS. The savings is when you buy the 21 version verse the SW152. Probably never be able to compare these drivers side by side. Thats why I generally buy BC for value and I am happy with them so far. Just would be nice to actually hear if these others ARE better or not.
  18. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    I would not put any driver in a ported cab feed it 1800 potential watts without a Hpass. Sure BC has mechanical limiting factors to avoid this driver from being hurt by excursion peaks but it CAN still be broken. I plan on using my future pair of DS115's in ported cabinets tuned to 14hz. And with 1800watts they are going to break. So I am sure if you are at home with a noise floor of 35db's only listening at 65db and your amp is an Inuke3K you may be fine. BUT with the rest of us thats not going to work.
  19. Max performance I say. I made a simulation of a 21" SW152 MAUL and every time I split it into two I needed it to go slightly larger to equal performance. PLUS the price of the DS115 is quite a savings for me verse SW152 so I like the idea of also having a pair of single cabinets to go below the L/R. The main Skhon will go below the center. Not saying the savings turn me towards any driver but seeing I can have what I want for about 350/400 dollars less money is very helpful. Savings can go towards SP amplifiers.
  20. Having lived in Maine when I was in the Navy most of the people there are very.........artsy. Different for sure.
  21. You can get PL glue here in Australia. I used Supaflex glue on my first horn build years ago. BUT I bought PL glue as soon as I saw it was here. I used it when I lived in the USA and liked it the best for its squeeze out. Both are available here in Oz. If you buy PL I think you have to buy a box of it which is 12 tubes.
  22. chrapladm

    B&C 21DS115

    Seems like 100db is a good guess at 100hz. I dont expect Ricci to be perfect but 98 roughly at 100hz is pretty close. Both 4ohm versions in 127 liters. This new DS115 is the best value subwoofer for me to use in a HT. I do enjoy the 18IPAL better for its smaller size the DS115 is $100 cheaper than that driver. I have too many other projects taking my money so these new 21's will have to wait.
  23. I was going to suggest foam plugs for the vents but at war volumes that might not be enough. I had used that before on my old sub and it worked fine but nothing like this.
  24. If going for maximum output what does this cabinet need power wise? 30hz tune? I didnt think the plate amps had enough power. I thought they put their power out in 2ohms so 4ohm DS drivers on a plate each might need more power. I figure your Powersoft 20K, or whatever its called, can put out enough but curious is all. If the SP plate amps were 6000watts x 4ohm or 2ohm that would be great.
  25. Did you drill a hole in the corner or how did you drill between the two baffles to connect the drivers? I was looking at using a speakon for each hatch. Then when and if I get the plate amp I will just use the slave out on the plate amp to the speakon. Trying to finish my projects so I can start enjoying them. So plate amp wont be happening for a little while.
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