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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/22/2019 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Hi Everyone, I have taken @dsl1 files from page 15, edited them to test the fitment of everything on my laser scaled for 5mm and 3mm thick birch ply. I have made a few minor adjustments so far and created a good assembly test setup 6.5" wide, 10" tall and 9" deep. I have ordered the handles, T-nuts and Duratex from Parts-Express. I have to say I really like the updated design that eliminates all of the multiple bracing pieces in the original design files and combines them into larger single pieces for faster assembly. I plan on changing some of the joints on my files so that the edges interlock when I do go to V-Carve and CNC cut the full size design. I also plan on adding a piece that covers all of the front ports for storage so no critters get in and make a mess. Once my scaled files are done for the 3mm and 5mm birch I will share the illustrator and dxf files so anyone can make a mini box if they would like to as well. I like physically handling the box at this scale, it helps me visualize the assembly and work through any kinks.
  2. 2 points
    Hi Everyone, I have been following Data-Bass and the other forums for many years while building an art car. This year was its first year to the Playa after 4 years of work, a divorce, a child being born, etc etc. I teach illustrator, CNC Plasma, CNC Router, Laser and NFPA 160 Flame effects at a local makers space here in Truckee CA. I own a Boss Laser HP3655 Stainless Steel cutting 150Watt CO2 laser that I am using to make the art car with and helping other artists with their projects as well. This project is a labor of love and not for profit. http://www.instagram.com/jackalotus https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qSE1zhUI5/ https://www.instagram.com/p/B2ISZPCBKgp/ I currently have in mind building my own cabinets using two 21SW152's I currently own. I have been working on ported box designs for quite some time, but keep drooling over Ricci's awesome work on various forums going back to I think 2010. I plan on building tops with help from a Electrical engineer friend who works at Meyers Sound. I have a stack of Baltic Birch sitting here in my garage waiting for the right design to build around my 21SW152's and I think I have decided to throw my ported designs in the waste basket and go with the SKRAM design of Ricci's that everyone here is building. I plan on placing 2 of these boxes under the head of the PlayaPachederm. My Question is... Is anyone willing to share/sell an Autodesk file or VCARVE file? Also wondering how i can donate to all the hard work Ricci put in for us? Need anything laser cut out of stainless let me know
  3. 1 point
    Interesting....they are quite different, windows could account for it, but the level differences are what I see as most prominent. I wonder if the DTS-HDMA and ATMOS tracks have different dialnorm settings, or something else. JSS
  4. 1 point
    It’s rated for 3/4” but you would need to run nitrogen to keep the wood from burning too much. I cut 1/2” at like 10mm/sec.
  5. 1 point
    That's gotta be the cutest thing I've seen all day! The smell in the shop must be horrible thou πŸ˜… Making small scale models would require using a tiny router bit. That laser surely is a handy thing. If you now put a 6" (???) driver inside and made a working cab you would make my day!
  6. 1 point
    It is a Boss Laser 3655, 150 watt CO2 laser. Regarding controlling depth on dados, no, i am not able to control the depth very well, wood density changes and the laser does not sense the variation in density of the material. If I was using a material like Plexi I can control the depth very well. This is just for mock up and its not perfect, but at least it gets a working model in my hands
  7. 1 point
    Making a vacuum table is not too difficult. It may not be something you would want to do, but underneath an mdf or ultra light mdf spoilboard is a vacuum board with a pattern cut by the cnc that looks similar to the below. The vacuums connect from underneath to the hole cutouts in the vaccum board via pvc pipe. Different zones can be made on the vacuum board and then can control the vacuum to the zones with blast gates in-line with the pvc. The vacuums lower the barometric pressure beneath the surface of the spoilboard which creates push down force on the material resting on top of the spoilboard. It has worked very well for many (me included). Without knowing the torque vector of your spindle or router, rigidity of your machine, etc., what works best for you and your machine is all that matters and chipload calculations and calculators can be a nuisance. If it will help and you want, I attached a decent chipload calculator that could be used as a reference point. With my main 4.2 hp spindle and machine, I would start with a new material around the chipload recommended in "aggressive". With a router (not a spindle) around 3 hp for Baltic birch plywood, I would have started around a 0.004 - 0.006 chipload. chipload calc.xls This may not be your goal, but in order to extend my bit life, I like to be able to touch the bit after a job and it feel cool to the touch. The speeds I want to cut at and the material finishes have worked well with that cool touch bit as well. Ran another skram sheet last night for the second skram. Here are some chips from the hatch (2 flute 1/4 inch compression bit, ~12,000 rpm @ 240 ipm climb leaving .04" material - nearly full depth profile cut - bit cool) : Added a quick 1st coat of wet stain on skram number 1 last night too:
  8. 1 point
    I really like BB too. The Janka score can be around 1200 and I think as low as 1000. I think that's a decent range to account for when cutting. Over the years, there is a sound I've learned from others and my own work which helps figure out if the cutting rpm and feedrate are not good. Anything high pitch like a screech is typically not good. Visually speaking, if there is dust and not chips, then that is also usually bad (even for mdf).
  9. 1 point
    maxmercy-Please list your top 10 movies on Blu-ray for 2019 with the deepest and most powerful bass.
  10. 1 point
    Ad Astra. Might be worth a spin for the rumbly feeling.
  11. 1 point
    Godzilla: King of the Monsters - Dolby ATMOS (7.1 channel bed) Level - 5 Stars (112.7dB composite) Extension - 3 Stars (19Hz) Dynamics - 3 Stars (24dB) Execution - TBD Overall - TBD Notes - Loud, but not deep. Very much like Pacific Rim in the rolloff slope. BEQ for this film in the BEQ thread. JSS
  12. 1 point
    And that's where I met you, Dave, over at HTguide. Wow, that was a LONG time ago. That place is still active and has some of the smartest and most level headed audio nerds. What a great place. Though the demographic there isn't exactly up the level of ...let's just call it 'desire' for SPL/extension bass. It's not the main focus but that's okay. Again, great people there. If on AVS were as civil. Well said. But ... times change. As you mentioned, things, people and trends change. We are a FAAARRR cry from the typical sub build of 15 years ago. Yer right! 25hz tuned 12's was the rage for a long time. Sealed subs were just for "music guys". Hell, I thought as much back then too. But I've always been a HT audio guy since ...forever so of course I'd think that. But to be fair, there were NOT drivers that are ANYTHING like what we have now and totally take for granted. You're lucky to get a driver with >12mm Xmax back then in any size or price. I love reminiscing about such things. Let's keep doing this. Yeah, a lot of people at AVS suck. I get it. I don't really have a problem with it but yeah, I notice. There are still good people there and like you mentioned, Dave... I hated the forum hopping. AVS has one thing that is desirable. Traffic. Lot's of it. That comes with a worse SNR though. That's what filters and proper gain structure is for... erm, ahem, I mean the ignore and subscription buttons.
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