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  1. Today
  2. LSC

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Okay that's good news, will go without the T-Nuts.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Last week
  5. Ricci

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Same for me. I'd prefer screwing directly into the wood. I change drivers often and do the exact same thing. If the screw holes strip I'll either go to a larger diameter screw if there is room in the driver frame, or simply rotate the driver and make new holes. This is one advantage of ply over MDF. Screwing directly into MDF is risky. BTW good work on the cabs. That's a lot of pocket screws!
  6. Jesal

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Port and horn divider/braces are all 12mm. I don't use T-Nuts on any of my subs, just screwed in. If it strips rotate the driver and screw to a new area. Works for me, I never had to rotate it yet.
  7. LSC

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    So good to see yous building already!! Liking your tweaks for easier construction without CNC, Jesal! Did you use 18mm ply for the vent dividers and does that even matter much (change of tuning freq.)? Also is it possible to just mount the driver without T-Nuts? They caused a lot of hassle in our last builds and we feel like we don't really need to take out drivers often..
  8. Jesal

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Thanks that reminds me... I have to paint my Skram too, or it will stay unpainted for years like my Skhorn lol
  9. dsl1

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Looks great! I have two all glued up and ready for round-overs + painting, but this weekend got away from me. Maybe tomorrow night.
  10. Jesal

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Lots of screwing this weekend
  11. Driver from California showed up fried. Paypal and Madisound saved the day. I would like more motors if anyone wants to part with them.
  12. zolthoff

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Sure. I haven't reread through the skhorn thread in a while so maybe I'll go read all those again. I just came across the linked sub today so I'm not super familiar either. I've been planning to tackle a skram build (or 2) with the Lavoce drivers so I've been digging into all the related builds with similar drivers lately and was just curious how they compared. The size of the skram is seems to be pretty compact which is quite handy! I also came across another similar (albeit larger) design by LTD02 for these drivers called the Devastator. Does anyone know if that would that be similar in performance, at least when accounting for the difference in overall size? Devastator an LTD02 hybrid design https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3032394
  13. Ricci

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    There are differences. Its a lot to go into from my phone and Ive posted about it in the Skhorn thread and other places. I'm not familiar with the linked subs or if there are measurements but its a vented sub that is smaller with what looks like less vent area and its a direct radiator.
  14. zolthoff

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    How would the Skram stack up against the same driver in a ported enclosure like the MBM-21 by GSG? Are there other advantages to the 6th-ish order enclosure vs. just the basic 4th order ported box? The tunings are quite similar. https://shop.gsgad.com/collections/mbm-by-gsg
  15. maxmercy

    The Bass EQ for Movies Thread

    That is awesome. Thanks for doing this! Once I upgrade my hardware, I'll give it a spin. I will currently be out of the ability to BEQ for a while, as I will be HT-less for a bit during a move. I cannot recommend a BEQ I have not screened myself. I plan on doing some more films in the future, and this tool should allow it to be done faster. JSS
  16. 3ll3d00d

    The Bass EQ for Movies Thread

    finally wrote a user guide for the app -> https://beqdesigner.readthedocs.io/en/latest/
  17. Madaeel

    Behringer inuke replacement?

    Haha yup that's all that matters. I know they're a little bit more than their predecessors but the looks, and silence upgrade, is well worth it. I personally would've never put one in my room, or a clone, just for the loud ass fans let alone that ugly faceplate. I got a newer FP clone for my near-field subs and I can hear the fans through my 3" thick door. 😐Yah I could do a fan mod but I'm not sure that's a wise idea on the clones and as soon as there's any sound then it's masked even at -40MV. So in my closet idc but for a lot of guys who use these amps it's an amazing upgrade and for $550/450 they're a bargain still for the DIY community.
  18. Kyle

    Ricci's Skhorn Subwoofer & Files

    T-nuts don't really seal well, even with a screw in there, its not perfect
  19. Ricci

    Ricci's Skhorn Subwoofer & Files

    That's good news. Should be an easy fix.
  20. Earlier
  21. Revolt Sound

    Ricci's Skhorn Subwoofer & Files

    Ok so it was an air leak that is causing the noise problem. It was coming from one of the un used t-nuts for the different drivers we will be testing.
  22. Jesal

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Ok thanks, will go without the circles. Weight is not much of an issue.
  23. dsl1

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    If it's sitting in a room, doesn't matter. Just cuts weight a bit.
  24. Jesal

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    What's the best way to cut brace circles? I tried router straight bits and hole saws, it's a pain in the butt. So I just leave it solid... as I do everything manual, unfortunately no CNC.
  25. dsl1

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Got one all glued up. Second soon.
  26. Jesal

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    It will be on it's sides, so had to shorten it a bit. But it would still be a wall to wall bass, with 2 Skrams and a Skhorn up front. A single Skram by the couch for nearfield impact, it should do the trick lol
  27. radulescu_paul_mircea

    Luke's basic amplifier tests

    The output power of a K20 vs an X4 K20: 145 V RMS for less than a second at 2.05 ohms both channels driven Then it limits to 58 V then it goes down to 52. This means 10.5 kw per channel for long bursts 1680 watts for 4-10 seconds 1350 watts per channel for almost a minute then thermal protection. Similar output is offered at 2.5 ohms , 70 V RMS for 4-10 seconds. This time constant depends on the internal temperature. The X4 can do 2950 W for 2 seconds at 4 ohms, then 1600 watts per channel at 4 ohms for 20 seconds single channel. 2*2650 w for 0.8 seconds then 950 watts per channel at 4 ohms for 12 seconds 2 channels driven After 20 respectively 12 seconds, the amp shuts down the output, going into protection. There is also a review of the X4 on Production Partner showing interesting result with all channels driven at the same time with the same signal. Ipal module is pretty small. Maximum output power is 4500 watt for 0.3 seconds then it will reduce to 2500 watts for 3 seconds then it limits to 700 watts continuous for 35 seconds then down to 400 watts for long term. K3 at 2.3 ohm load will deliver 3150W per channel for less than 0.4 seconds both channels driven, will then go down to 1450 for a second then slowly down to 500 watts a channel in 1.5 seconds. Why I receive this thread? Because now Powersoft launched a new model, X4L , a forced bridged X8 amp, that has 4 channels with 300 Vpeak and 140Apeak. If 2 X4 channels can deliver that sustained power and program power, then I believe the new X4L will surpass the K20 if asymmetrical loading is used. The idea is that a series loaded 2*21Ipal loaded Skhorn presents a pretty high minimum impedance for a K20 so mostly the output is voltage limited in normal use. Bridging the amp would be too much for the long safe run and very expensive. With this new model, voltage will not be a problem anymore, the maximum average output power is high enough for using 8 21 Ipal on 4 channels and. It can be almost 3 dB louder on peak output than with the K20 but with awesome processing and three phase ready.
  28. Ricci

    Ricci's Skhorn Subwoofer & Files

    Speakerpower plate fits the hatch cutout nicely.
  29. Ricci

    Ricci's Skram Subwoofer & Files

    Looking good Jesal. I thought something looked a bit off but I remember now you were building them at 32 high x 36 deep instead.
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