dgage

Thanks Kipman725. I think this will work well for my needs. Since I’m just using it for testing purposes (no measurements), I won’t even need to worry about modifying it for roll off.

I need a small source device to be able to test our powered subwoofers. A phone doesn't provide enough voltage to push our subwoofers to their limits. I have used a computer with a USB interface (Focusrite 2i2) and it can get fairly loud but I forgot my computer at home one day and couldn't test. So I'm hoping for something pretty small that I can play through or attached to a phone and has enough voltage to get the subwoofers really moving. Does anyone have some ideas on such a mini preamp with subwoofer out? Thanks. David

This will trim an 1/8” off of the top part of the circle with a handheld router. Then follow that with a pattern bit with the bearing near the router to get the bottom removed. 2 bits and 2 passes and you’ve enlarged it 1/8”. https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-MR0100-Bearing-Diameter/dp/B002QB0PVK

Interestingly, my 212s are the aluminum horn versions and I like them better than the wooden horn versions. Like you said, lots of opinions.

I may be the odd man out but I actually didn’t think the high-end or low-end on the SH-50s (BeastAudio’s) was that impressive, at least from a detail and articulate standpoint. To me, the high-end on the SH-50s seemed rolled off and when we looked at the measurements, sure enough, the high-end started rolling off around 17,000 Hz. On the low-end there was plenty of midbass but I didn’t find it as detailed as I would have liked. On the flip side, I thought the soundstage and point-source of the speakers were phenomenal. But overall, I liked my JTR 212s over the SH-50s because the detail was better on the 212s. I ended up taking my 212s to Beast’s house so the listening was blind A/B back and forth. I actually started a thread on AVS trying to get Danley to produce a home-theater version of the SH-50/60 with a slightly better compression driver but after some initial talks with a Danley person in the thread, it didn’t end up going anywhere. Edit: I should also mentioned that my sealed 212s were at a severe disadvantage when comparing midbass. But up top the 212s were noticeably better to my ears.

I know. Such a small table saw. I have a CNC but that table saw is so nice!

You may want to grab body filler if you’re going to paint it. Much better than high-build primer or wood putty. Looking good though. And one key with the magnets is don’t mess up the polarity unless you’re using magnets on one side and steel discs on the other side.

The modules in the SP1-4000 to SP2-12000 to my knowledge are not made by Hypex. And since I use the SpeakerPower amps for my business, my only response due to potential liability is to get SpeakerPower’s recommendation before trying it.

The SP2-12000 is a dual mono design so the channels can not be bridged. That’s what I was told by Brian Oppegaard when I asked him one time. I’m not sure what their operating configuration is.

Good point, my testing was with sealed enclosures so ported or horns would indeed be different. However, I agree with SME to go with thicker foam as I doubt 1” will do much of anything until you get over 1,000 Hz or so. The following link goes over absorption of different products and thicknesses at different frequencies. https://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm

I tested with my sealed 18” and 24” subs filled with blue jean insulation. I was able to measure a small difference but was able to use a very minor DSP entry to get the non-filled sub to match the filled sub. So yes there may be a minor difference but in the scheme of things, it won’t really matter and since you yourself said you didn’t like dealing with the adhesive, I say pass.

I doubt it would make any difference. Bass waves are just too long and will go through that foam like it isn’t there. For speakers, sure but for subs, don’t think you’d be able to measure a difference with the foam.

Dang, that’s almost as big as our sealed 24 at around 10 cuft. Our standard cube version is 28”x28”x27”deep but we’ve also made an end tableversion, which gets pretty big. Pretty much 30”x30” 32” tall.

You’ve tied the sides into the top and bottom but cross-bracing has been shown to be most effective. It may not need the sides tied together but if it were me, I’d probably tie the two sides together at least near the middle.

Looks really nice for anyone but especially for a rookie builder. Great work. Only comment I have is you have really nice bracing on the left and right but what about tying the two sides together?