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Favorite amplifiers for bass


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#21 TimVG

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Posted 17 December 2012 - 02:23 PM

An update: I was able to fix this problem by playing with the gain knob and gain switches on the back of the amplifier. Is there a standard way to match gain levels throughout a given system, preferably not a very difficult way :-). The only issue now is clipping the minidsp input at high levels. Decreasing the input level means I have to either boost the sub level somewhere else or decrease the output of the other speakers in the AVR.. Any tips would be very appreciated
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#22 morca

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Posted 04 March 2013 - 01:20 AM

I have very good experience whit Hypex,a Company from Holland http://www.hypex.nl/

I have these 2 plate,s on 2 JL audio 13W3v3 http://www.hypex.nl/...4-19/ds4-0.html

 

DS4.0 400Watt Class D subwoofer plate amplifier with active filtering. Key features are:

Specifications

GENERAL FEATURES:
- High efficiency Class D design
- Active subwoofer amplifier


TECHNICAL DATA:
Continuous output power (8 Ohm): 210 Watts (+0, -0.5dB)
Continuous output power (4 Ohm): 400 Watts (+0, -0.5dB)
Subsonic-filter: 12Hz / -3dB, 24dB/Octave
Phase: 0° - 180°, 180° - 360°
Crossover frequency subwoofer: 30Hz - 120Hz, 18dB/Octave
Bassboost: 20Hz - 50Hz
Bassboost level: 0dB - +6dB
Damping factor: 1000
Protection: Output shortcut / DC-error
Crossover filtering: Linkwitz-Riley, 18dB/Octave
Input impedance RCA: 10kOhm
Input impedance high level: 1kOhm
230/115Vac switchable

 

 

Also available for a little more power

 

DS8.0 800Watt Class D subwoofer plate amplifier with active filtering.

Specifications

GENERAL FEATURES:
- High efficiency Class D design
- Active subwoofer amplifier


TECHNICAL DATA:
Continuous output power (8 Ohm): 530 Watts (+0, -0.5dB)
Continuous output power (4 Ohm): 800 Watts (+0, -0.5dB)
Subsonnic-filter: 12Hz / -3dB, 24dB/Octave
Phase: 0° - 180°, 180° - 360°
Crossover frequency subwoofer: 50Hz - 150Hz, 18dB/Octave
Bassboost: 20Hz - 50Hz
Bossboost level: 0dB - +6dB
Damping factor: 1000
Protection: Output shortcut / DC-error
Crossover filtering: Linkwitz-Riley, 24dB/Octave
Input impedance RCA: 10kOhm
Input impedance XLR: 10kOhm
230/115Vac switchable


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#23 loach71

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Posted 30 April 2013 - 09:56 PM

BGW 750C for me... they were used in the Sensurround VLF movie system in the '70s

You can get them on Ebay...

Big, heavy, reliable.



#24 maxmercy

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Posted 01 May 2013 - 02:33 AM

Any LF roll off in those?

JSS

#25 lukeamdman

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Posted 21 September 2013 - 03:32 PM

Actually didn't Chuck get 800w out of it at 4ohms per channel and roughly 900 out of it at 2 ohms? I thought it was about 1800-1900W bridged into 4 ohm.

I am thinking about trying a Crest CC5500. It is rated at 1800w a channel at 4 ohms and 2750w a channel at 2 ohms. It's a lighter and more efficient than the CA-18 knock offs.

 

I got some open box CC5500's off ebay for $799 from an authorized dealer.  Mint.

 

I have each of them bridged powering an Othorn.  HOLY COW!



#26 FOH

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 04:12 PM

I got some open box CC5500's off ebay for $799 from an authorized dealer.  Mint.

 

I have each of them bridged powering an Othorn.  HOLY COW!

 

Nice score. 

 

I realize they're power-house amps, combined with the high sens boxes, as insane as it sounds ...  have you explored their limits? Can you describe the fans, and how they operate at idle, in normal use, when hitting it hard, etc.? What type of line side power/how are you feeding them?  Any noteworthy power related comments?   

 

On a related note, has anyone read or experienced first hand, anything worth sharing about  the ProLite, class D series from Crest? 



#27 maxmercy

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Posted 23 September 2013 - 11:43 PM

I also have a Q:

Are the Peavey IPR2s really that good? I see them praised in many other places...

JSS

#28 lukeamdman

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 03:24 AM

Nice score. 

 

I realize they're power-house amps, combined with the high sens boxes, as insane as it sounds ...  have you explored their limits? Can you describe the fans, and how they operate at idle, in normal use, when hitting it hard, etc.? What type of line side power/how are you feeding them?  Any noteworthy power related comments?   

 

On a related note, has anyone read or experienced first hand, anything worth sharing about  the ProLite, class D series from Crest? 

 

When first powered on, the fans stay completely off for a few minutes.  Then, even without playing anything, they'll turn on at a pretty low speed.  At this point they're still more quiet than say a stock ep4000 or inuke by far.

 

I've hammered on them pretty good for a few hours and the fans have barely speed up, but it's not something you'd want in the same room.

 

Since they have the 30a twist locks, I had to upgrade the outlets, but each amp has a dedicated 30a circuit.  

 

For SQ, I can't tell any difference from my fp14k's.  They hit just as hard, sound just as clean, and running some sweeps in REW show they have the exact same response curve down to 10hz.  My horns can't play much below that, so I can't test any lower.  

 

As a power test, I had one Othorn on one channel of a fp14k clone running in stereo.  I played a heavy bass track until the clips lights were on hard.  Using my calibrated UMM-6 and REW as the SPL meter, I took note of the max SPL.

 

I then put a bridged Crest in and matched the SPL.  There was no hint of the clip lights, and the fan speed didn't increase.  Yes, an unfair test, but I wanted more power and definitely got it.  



#29 lukeamdman

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 03:25 AM

I also have a Q:

Are the Peavey IPR2s really that good? I see them praised in many other places...

JSS

 

 

Funny enough, this post was just made on AVS by N8DOGG:

 

"Since I've got both the 7500 and the 14 clone, i'll give my 2 cents. If your running 2 ohms, get the peavy, anything else, get the clone.

My 2 new fp14's work great, no issues so far. They do a better job than the peavy with my FTW's, they hit harder than the peavy does but I have 4 ohm drivers.
The subs just seem to really hammer with the clones and hooking up the peavy, it's not the same experience. I don't have any charts or numbers, just going from feel."



#30 cuzed2

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Posted 15 October 2013 - 04:46 PM

Can anyone comment on the suitability of a QSC RMX850?

I am currently using one bridged to push my 3rd cylinder, an SVS 20-39 tuned to 16 Hz with an upgraded 12.3 driver.

 

Any shortcominings, comments or siuggestions for the RMX850

low end roll-off a limiting factor ?



#31 maxmercy

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 02:10 AM

Roll-off should not be a factor unless you are tuned lower than the 16Hz tune...



#32 Nicke

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 06:17 PM

I have tried a lot of amps for my subs,doesnt like PA amps noice/dist,tried some krell amps 300cx,700fpb-cx
those have a limiter for dc so it creates "gunshot" Sound when fed like a (2 Hz) signal from HTTYD dragon crash,my new amp is no problem not cheap bit ot works ; )

#33 Nicke

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 06:26 PM

The amp im using for my subs is O&G RS2000

#34 maxmercy

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Posted 18 October 2013 - 10:38 PM

Something I have been thinking about for a long time, that may be actually possible soon.

 

I need an amplifier that can put out around 500-1000W per channel, but exhibit near zero rolloff down to 1Hz.  My house cannot take lots of ULF, as my drywall can already attest.  I was going to build a riser and install some Crowson tactile transducers under it to get the content below 7-12Hz...

 

Ideas?

 

 

JSS



#35 Nicke

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Posted 19 October 2013 - 08:47 PM

Guess you should go for a low ~16Hz tuned ported sub setup,due to house as you said,so Max you dont need to worrie about rollof at 1Hz,or did i missunderstand you?

Nicke

#36 maxmercy

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Posted 20 October 2013 - 11:46 AM

Guess you should go for a low ~16Hz tuned ported sub setup,due to house as you said,so Max you dont need to worrie about rollof at 1Hz,or did i missunderstand you?

Nicke

 

I still want to use multiple sealed, but not in enough number to get super low (every octave lower requires 4x the displacement).  For the lowest octaves, which are mainly felt as a result of resonances, I want to use crowson transducers under a riser.  They turn 'sound' into 'movement' as low as the content present, so a signal chain + amplifier with zero rolloff would be preferable, as long as you put in a delay to account for the fact that the transducer is at 'zero distance' from the LP.  Basically, I want to feel the 1-3Hz hits I keep graphing.  The only person I know that can is Bosso, as he has worked diligently for years to ensure no rolloff in his signal chain.

 

JSS 



#37 FOH

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 06:01 PM

 ^  ^  ^

CraigJohn over at AVS turned me onto Crowson transducers a couple years ago. I'm very interested and implementing them into my sub system has been my plan as well, such actuators don't get any better than Crowson's offerings. You're right, proper time delay is vital .. as is overall level. I've been in contact with other users as well, almost pulled the trigger a year ago, held off because I changed our seating a bit.

 

Why don't you contact Crowson, wrt signal path roll-off etc?  



#38 FOH

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Posted 21 October 2013 - 06:05 PM

I neglected to mention, currently with (4)15"s and (4)18"s, I've got a lot of displacement, but the structural moans and groans are both a little un-nerving, and somewhat distracting.   



#39 maxmercy

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Posted 23 October 2013 - 05:09 AM

I neglected to mention, currently with (4)15"s and (4)18"s, I've got a lot of displacement, but the structural moans and groans are both a little un-nerving, and somewhat distracting.   

 

I agree.  Seeing my front wall move 1/4" with 20Hz at 115dB is probably not good for it.

 

I will contact Crowson when I get time.

 

JSS



#40 Ricci

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Posted 23 October 2013 - 01:18 PM

Well...If you want an amplifier with zero roll off and all day long output below 20Hz you can try to score a cheap Crown M600 or AETechron 7560. These are DC coupled and will sit there and drive 2 ohms at about 1250w long term and will burst a lot more. They'll even drive 1ohm. However they are also 4 rack spaces tall and weigh 95lbs with a couple of huge fans. I had a pair I scored for like $650 years ago. Good amps just huge and back breaking.






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