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Bossobass Mini GTG Thread


Bossobass Dave

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On the cooling issue, I used to overclocked CPU's a lot back in the 90's and early 2000's. Before water cooling was around, we found that the best way to air cool a computer case was to have it pressurized with more air coming in than was being "pulled" out. So we had more fans pushing air in to the case and fewer fans sucking the air out. We tried it both ways but the cases that were pressurized with air always had lower core CPU temps as well as internal case temps.

 

I'm not sure if the same thing would work for an amp or not...

You can turn air over in a space with positive or negative pressure.  You had good results with positive.  The A14K moves air from the middle of the case which creates a negative pressure for the front half but a negative pressure for the back half.  When cooling heat sinks you have the option to drag air over the sink or to force air onto it.  I've found that a fan forcing air directly on the sink is the most efficient way to get the most heat out of the metal for your available fan(s).  You can't get the fans in the A14K closer to the output transistor heat sinks and any less air on the metal (to lower fan noise) and like Bosso said... POP!

 

So crazy to see a PC in mineral oil.

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She did get a boob job this year. Best year ever. :lol:  :lol:

Well I am sure that would be a nice upgrade in the HT for all to see. LOL. Just kidding. Wifey had one a few years ago now and yes....they are a fun upgrade.

 

 

DO you really need a fan over the CPU anymore, :)

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About cooling, I totally get it.  An amp either needs ultra high efficiency (expensive) or it needs fans.  Or it doesn't achieve the claimed performance.

 

And I agree that most buyers are going to install their amp farther away than I would, and many people even have dedicated equipment closets.  I'm the crazy one installing it 7 feet away in an open cabinet in my 11'x19' living room.  ;)

 

For those comparing amp cooling to cooling CPUs, consider that a fairly hot CPU has a rated TDP of maybe 120 W.  A 60% efficiency 14kW amp can produce 8.4kW of power, or about the same amount as 70 of those CPUs.  What I don't know is how much surface area that power is dissipated over.  I bet it's way more than for CPUs or else the heat transfer problem would not really have a solution.  Instead, I imagine there's a lot of heat-producing area, and this makes the interface between said area and the cooling fluid in a water cooling system potentially much more complex and expensive.  The nice thing about air is that it's pretty easy to push a lot of it across a wide area.  The mineral oil option has more potential in my mind because it can interface directly with the components without shorting them out.  However, I suspect this has other drawbacks that make it not useful except in experimental circumstances.

 

And just to clarify my stance on noise floor.  It's really not a big thing at all unless you live in a particularly noisy neighborhood or something.  It's only big enough to matter, just barely.  And this is important for those who have any real business obsessing over whether an SNR of "only" 105 dB or THD of 0.1% in a pre-amp is something to fret about.  The answer is that in almost all cases, your dynamic range is defined by your system's maximum clean output minus your ambient noise floor.  In the mid-range frequencies, a good system in a quiet room might have 110 dB per channel output and a noise floor of 30 dB for a "whopping" 80 dB of dynamic range.  That effectively gives you 13-bits of audio resolution or about 16 dB less dynamic range than the theoretical maximum available from good old CD audio.  It's ironic that, despite the enormous headroom available in the CD format, the majority of releases have a peak-to-average ratios in the 6-9 dB range due to the loudness war and all.

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I don't notice the fan noise on my inuke that's 12ft away in an open cabinet facing me. My HTPC is a LOT louder. I disconnected the front fan on the HTPC since it is using an SSD drive and has zero heat issues. I'm not sure how much louder the fans are on other amps such as the fp14k, etc?

 

Seems like fan noise is more of a concern on critical listening with music, which is almost a professional sport to some!

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Did you fan mod the Behringer's or no Scott?

 

Of course! I had to. All of them, not just the Behringer amps. There are a lot of amps right behind the seats. At first there was ten (now nine) amps, each with at least one fan. Some had two. Got a little help as they're in an amp rack and in front of that is about 6" of ECOSE. Check the members equipment list thread here to see if you haven't already. Or check my sig.

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Seems like fan noise is more of a concern on critical listening with music, which is almost a professional sport to some!

 

What's so special about critical music listening versus, say, critical movie listening?  Movies have music in them, and they also have a lot of other sounds as well.  I've seen many people claim that music and movie listening are somehow dramatically different, yet this has not been my experience.  At no point have I ever felt like I had to compromise the performance of one medium for the other in my system design.

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Bosso I forgot to ask what is your midbass module's target design FR? And where is it located in your room?

 

I was looking at having a simple 2 way design with horn loaded CD and a pair of 10's tuned to 45-50hz. I am afraid I will be lacking midbass dynamics that I so desire. So I was looking at a few different options for midbass add ons.

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What's so special about critical music listening versus, say, critical movie listening?  Movies have music in them, and they also have a lot of other sounds as well.  I've seen many people claim that music and movie listening are somehow dramatically different, yet this has not been my experience.  At no point have I ever felt like I had to compromise the performance of one medium for the other in my system design.

 

 

I could site quite a few sources that attempt to explain why you can only optimize for one OR the other, but Im not going to as IME, I completely agree with you. I want for nothing with stereo music or multichannel movie listening in my space. They are both spectacular. 

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  • 2 months later...

Bosso I forgot to ask what is your midbass module's target design FR? And where is it located in your room?

 

I was looking at having a simple 2 way design with horn loaded CD and a pair of 10's tuned to 45-50hz. I am afraid I will be lacking midbass dynamics that I so desire. So I was looking at a few different options for midbass add ons.

 

Wow, just looking at older threads and saw that I had basically abandoned you, Chrap. Sorry for that.

 

The poop on the Starship MBM:

 

This was in the days of the very high Le Tumult MKI drivers. They required a max high 80 Hz cross point and did not transition well above that, so, one day I saw these Pyramid 6.5" drivers on sale at PE for 10 bucks each or less for 20 of them (I forget the exact $$ but the bottom line was that they were very easy on the wallet) and decided to give it a build.

 

Drivers: 20 x 6.5" Pyramid W-64.

Alignment: Sealed, push/pull (10 drivers front-firing, 10 drivers rear-firing, lined up pairs) to eliminate 2HD.

Configuration: 'L' shaped & double 1/2 circle arched to minimize comb filtering and to fit into a corner for all-freqs reinforcement.

Placement: Designed to be corner loaded.

 

Materials: Flat black painted MDF with satin finish polyurethane top coat, layered 1/8" hard board (for the curves), real aluminum slats on hardboard to dress the curves and solid American Walnut trim strips and screw covers.

 

Measured 1) Close, 2) Run with no filters with subwoofer with 80 Hz LR4 LPF measured close and 3) both running, measured at the LP (No smoothing on any of the traces)

 

mq3QM81.png

 

Pics:

 

GO5vTy5.png

With high sensitivity to begin with and having 20 of them close coupled, the sensitivity is very high. I drive the SS-MBM with a Stewart World 1.2, which coasts and doing a closed ears noise test (fingers over ears with head in the 'V') reveals the high SPL capability.

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All you need is some DSP on each of those drivers, and you'll have the biggest baddest sound-bar known to man and woman alike.  Just think: the Bossobass Mid Bass Soundbar (the BMBS 20?)

 

More seriously, I like the concept and execution here quite a bit.  Did you run a pair of these in stereo?  I bet they'd do a nice job to augment the lower mid-range as well if you did a shallow cross with the mains.

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Bosso thanks for the update on your midbass module.

 

How do I look at your Dash V on your website?

 

I can only see the SEQSS and amps. I can also see the amps on the buy now page but no Dash R. not ready to buy anything yet but wanted to read again about the Dash R.

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Bosso thanks for the update on your midbass module.

 

How do I look at your Dash V on your website?

 

I can only see the SEQSS and amps. I can also see the amps on the buy now page but no Dash R. not ready to buy anything yet but wanted to read again about the Dash R.

 

Hey chrap,

 

I've taken the Dash-V off the site. Sold out and waiting for the next bulk components order with folks who have an order in waiting. The Dash V is Paul's baby. Supply is at the mercy of his whim and/or workload. It's more versatile than the Marchand Bassis and a heap less $$. All I can say is to check back often and when they're available next they'll appear on the amplifier page.

 

I hope you're talking about the Dash V because you also mention the Dash R, which are on the amp page and shopping cart site and available for purchase. B)

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