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  2. Hello everyone, long time lurker first time poster. Not sure if this is the right forum for this but here goes. I don’t have near the knowledge of anyone on this website. I just look for what crazy subs and the like being designed, built and tested on this site and avsforum and use them as my lead. Onto my question and this may be not even worthwhile so please if you don’t think this is a worthy upgrade let me know. I use 3 Powered Danley SH-100B’s for LCR and 4 powered SH-100’s in my dedicated theater room. Seeing Jeff from JTR, and reading other diy forums about the latest and greatest high end coaxial drivers from BMS and B&C I’m wondering it it would be worth looking to upgrade the coaxial in the Danleys? Honeslty im not sure exactly what Danley uses, I’ve seen conflicting reports of either the BMS or B&C. would this be as simple as just finding a newer higher end coaxial to replace the original or would it be more involved then that? Like re-working the crossover, etc? Any thoughts and possible candidates if you think it’s worthwhile greatly appreciated!
  3. Yesterday
  4. knock knock who´s there? it´s 2020, we want to see M-force
  5. Thanks "dgage"! No offense taken on your comments. I know I'm the newbie on this forum and must earn my respect. I apologize if I offended anyone with my opinion post. I'm a vintage audio guy, who enjoys a 2-Ch Stereo Setup. However, my clients like home theater systems with 5.1 to 7.1-Ch setups. I know and understand that there are more powerful sub manufacturers in the industry than REL & SVS. I'm not here to dispute which subs are the best, or sound better, or more powerful, etc. Every person experiences music differently, and have their own sound preferences. I created this Forum Topic for some insight and ideas for building a nice sub cabinet for the driver. I know I'm not going to build a REL sub box that matches their sound quality. I'm doing this project to challenge myself and become more familiar with building subwoofers & loudspeaker cabinets. Thank you for the feedback.
  6. Last week
  7. You can love any brand to death, but I personally wouldn't touch an 8" driver for anything "sub" related. If I read the data sheet correctly, it actually is an 8" driver. I own an 8" powered sub and I regret buying it. It's good for an 8" subwoofer, but it's not good for being a 1000$ sub. But now you have the driver already, so it's up to you to decide if you wanna make a fun project with it or if you want to build something bigger instead. Without knowing the T/S parameters of the driver it's basically impossible for us to tell you what to build. They don't seem to sell drivers separately, so it'll be hard to get those unless you can measure them.
  8. By the way, I didn’t mean to come off as a jerk if I did. Simply meant that those are fine subwoofers but there are some pretty special subwoofers out there that you should experience too. Sorry, I am not familiar with that particular driver but you could just build an enclosure of the same size as the original REL. To really design a different size or different type of enclosure (ported for instance), you’d need to get the Thiel-Small parameters for that driver.
  9. JTR and Seaton are over in Chicago, you may want to see if you can experience their subwoofer designs. REL and SVS make fine subs and products, both good companies but they don’t quite have the firepower many strive for on this site. You will also find there are many very knowledgeable people on this site that develop their own high-powered subwoofer designs that are extremely capable and great-sounding. And in my opinion and many others on this site, lots of bass means nothing if it doesn’t sound detailed and articulate. I hope you stick around and share your knowledge.
  10. In my opinion the top two subwoofer manufacturers are "REL" & "SVS". I have not heard any other sub drivers hit low frequencies with such crisp-expanding bass. These subs really change sound dynamics. Now, with that all said I came across a fairly new REL Q108 MKII Sub Driver for $25 and had to buy it. So, now I going to hone my building skills and construct my own subwoofer. I have some idea of what kind of box I want to build (enclosed box for sure), but I like to hear from anyone that has any ideas or delt with building a sub box using a REL driver. Thanks
  11. Does anyone have the inputs for the hornresp Input wizard required to set it up for simming? Thanks!
  12. Hello everyone, after following this topic from the beginning , me and a friend started building a skram about two months ago. The work was slow due to our limited woodworking experience but it's now near completion and I'm glad it's all fitting together. Thank you for the design mr. Ricci, I can't wait to fire it up. We are building just one sub so we only used 18mm birch and I'm happy to say it is possible to get one skram out of two 2440x1220 sheets but only if the cutout of the hatch panel is used as the hatch itself (maybe there is a better way but we did it like this). This is the first time I'm building something like this and although I have read this whole topic, I do have a few questions: We'll be using the sub with our Nexo PS10 tops, which are protected by their Nexo td controller. We don't have the budget for a good dsp yet so we'd like to use the sub output of the td controller for our sub. The crossover point is 120Hz and the recommended power for the Nexo LS500 sub is 300 - 800W (also 4ohm like our 21sw152). I guess with the protection circuit of the td controller there is no chance we could damage our driver? Will it limit much too early? Will the 120Hz crossover work well? I know this isn't an ideal situation but we'll have to make it work at the moment and if there's anyone here experienced with the nexo controller, I'd like to know what you think. Do you use some kind of extra seal to mount the driver or just bolt it on tight? Is there a reason to mount the Speakon connector in the hatch? There would have to be a loose wire on the inside to make this work? Do you solder the wiring to the driver and connector? Thanks in advance!
  13. Earlier
  14. Hi. Still available? I'm in the Portland, OR area and could probably make a drive out.
  15. 9601's are sold...Thanks Paul.
  16. hello, there is a 15% off on parts express right now, and i would like to upgrade subwoofer system. I currently own a pair of 18 sound NLW9600, in single bandpass box 7cu each, after displacement. they are 8 ohm, and i run them with an inuke 6000dsp. They sound ok, but i would like to run the amp at 4ohm, and was thinking on 2 options. A) Getting 2 LaVoce SAN184.03 18, to run all 4 subs, to work the amp at 4ohms per chanel . B) getting 2 B&C 21DS115-4 21 , and sell the 18 sound. A) the cons, more hauling, 4 boxes....2 different kind of subwoofers. Amplifier could heat? A) the pros, almost 6db more, more cone area, and more power. B) the bad, more costly. Less cone area than four 18s. B) Same subs, only 2 box to haul. I would apreciate your help, and advise.
  17. I've been wondering... What if one took like 5 Movers and attached them to a piece of plywood (one at each corner and one in the center). Then mount this to an infinite baffle construction and seal off the gap with a rubber surround... The surface area of a 2.5m x 1.25m sheet is equal to about 20 21" drivers (if you add half of a decently sized surround) with an Xmax of 15mm. Even if the entire thing would probably not be able to widthstand acceleration forces to get maximum excursion at say 40Hz, this should be a pretty efficient solution for single digit extension in any home theater. 5 movers have a total peak force of 4.5KN, which translates into an acceleration of 180m/s² of a 25kg mass (estimated weight of a 12mm thick sheet of BB ply). With an acceleration of 180m/s² you could move an object 15mm (Xmax) within ~0,013s. Since you need to do that 4 times to get a full sine wave cycle, that would result in a frequency of about 19Hz. And that only with 5KW if I'm interpreting their data sheet correctly. You could make an entire wall your cone area with enough movers...
  18. So far the pro sound MFG's haven't been beating down my door to have >$10K flagship subs tested!
  19. The picture of a similar driver in this thread got me confused then, thought it was some custom design! It's surprising that one of these subs is louder than 2 of your subs, the stats would tell a different story. According to hornresp, 4 IPALs should exceed 140db playing at their AES wattage from 30 (tuning frequency of my design) to 200Hz. Total volume being less than 1000L; 135db at 25Hz (excursion limited). Josh please get an F132 and do some CEA tests ❤️
  20. This is not M-Force , it’s a chinese A&D audio driver. Neo motor and 8” coil. I heard the M-Force more than once and it is absolutely amazing. Unfortunately the users had some unlucky situations with them but they indeed perform extremely well! that Funktion one sub is the loudest sub out there !period ! and it digs deep enough to be extremely impressive. It goes louder under 50 hz than 2 SKhorns XL loaded with Ipal and used with other subs from 60 hz up they will have enough headroom. There are a few companies who have 6 and 8 of them in use constantly with great results.
  21. I would also love to. The Funktion One horn's stats are not all that impressive when you look at the humongous size of the thing. iirc it's over 1000L and like 300kg, but if you look at it as what it is (a single driver subwoofer), it's ridiculous. I would also love to experience the Mover. The motor is similar to the M-Force in design. It generates enough force to lift my entire body. I don't know how many motors are that capable 😅
  22. I need to hear one of these M-force systems at some point!
  23. I will take those 9601s if they are still available. Just message me so we can work out details. Thanks. Paul
  24. Looks like there is a 50" M-Force being produced for club/home use. https://www.aia-cinema.com/references/detail/fidelity-40-ascendo-immersive-audio.html
  25. Well the power distribution I have for live shows is 32A three phase, which is plenty for the sound system. The supply line gets split up into 6 single phase 16A circuits which are on breakers with C characteristics. That allows for like 10KW for a few seconds before it trips. Would love to test the Hoellstern's sustained power. My loadbank is only 4x4Ohm sadly, so I wouldn't even be able to test something like 4x1Ohm. That would require 64 of the 16 Ohm heating elements I use 😅 Quotes from the website: The total power of all four channels is at practical burst signals typically 20 kW (40 kW for a short time). 1.6 ohm (only for information – 2 ohm minus 20 %) @Ricci It says minus 20%. Looks like they're only trying to say that the amp is stable into loads like these, but don't want to comit to a specific number of power output. With the super high maximum current of 125A on one of the amps, you would reach the rail voltage before the current limit even at a 1.6 Ohm load. Has anybody here tested/used Powersoft's DigiMod 3000? I might want to use it for my single 21" cab. It's fairly cheap (total looks to be under 1 grand with the dsp chip) and the figures look like a great match bridged into an 8 Ohm driver.
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